To Cork or Not to Cork

Ah, yes...time for a quick discussion on corkage fees, i.e. the fee charged by a restaurant for bringing a bottle of wine to the meal.

In these uncertain economic times, the idea of bringing your own wine to circumvent paying high restaurant prices might seem like a good plan; however, a few points of etiquette should be followed.

Corkage fees can range anywhere from $10-50 per bottle and most restaurants have a maximum bottle limit of 2-750ml bottles per table (A magnum size bottle is normally considered 2 bottles). The fee is charged to cover wine service (not gratuity), wine glass breakage, glass washing and some of the lost revenue from not selling a bottle off the restaurant's wine list. Remember that restaurants are in the business to turn a profit and beverage sales are a major component of the equation.

Note that BYOB is not always available in some states due to varying liquor laws.

Chiefwino's Corkage Tips:

1. Always call the restaurant in advance and inquire about corkage. Also, check the restaurant's website to see if the wine you would like to bring is available on the list. NEVER bring a wine that is already on the list as many restaurants will not serve it.

2. Do not bring an inexpensive bottle of wine or bottles that are very common on grocery store shelves. The idea behind corkage is to allow you to bring a special bottle, perhaps an old vintage wine you have been saving for a special occasion or something very unusual. If you do bring an old vintage, you are absolutely entitled to having the wine decanted and the use of the restaurant's finest stemware.

Note: If you are dining in a more casual establishment, the "special" rule need not necessarily apply as many casual spots have dismal wine programs with a majority of the selections not being overly food friendly (think over-oaked and fruit bomb wines). But do stay away from common brands and grocery store items so as not to appear "cheap" to the restaurant's staff. A nice non-descript Italian white or Southern French wine should do just fine.

3. Make sure to REMOVE price tags from the bottle being brought to the restaurant (see actual photo above). Nothing is worse than showing exactly what you paid for a bottle you have brought. Also, bring the wine in something other than a brown bag (think wine gift bag) for fear of being pegged as "cheap" from the get-go.

4. ALWAYS tip as if you had purchased the bottle from the restaurant as the server still had to perform wine service without a higher check total. Use your best guess as to what the wine might have cost.

5. Offer the Sommelier or Wine Steward a small sample, especially if you have brought a very special wine. This is common courtesy and will you help earn points with the service staff.

6. Lastly, if you can consume more wine after finishing your own bottle, consider purchasing a bottle from the restaurant's wine list. Some restaurants may even waive the corkage fee with the purchase of a bottle.

When in doubt, call the restaurant in advance and speak to a manager or the Sommelier to inquire on their specific corkage policy if you have questions.

Cheers!

Spain's Isle of Wine

The Island of Mallorca, 120 miles off Spain's Mediterranean coast conjures up images of white sand beaches filled with vacationers from mainland Europe, yet a mere 20 miles off the beach lies a land filled with rolling hills (mountains to the North) dotted with windmills and countless small bodegas.

Winemaking in Mallorca dates back to Roman times and since then has seen its ups and downs, most notably during the early 20th-century when Phylloxera (the vine root eating louse) devastated most of the vineyards, which down are down from 30,000 acres at the turn-of-the-century to around 2,500 acres today.

For many, wine from Mallorca is merely a curiosity and very few bottles ever reach the U.S. as most are consumed locally by the hoards of tourists that visit the Island each year. Yet the wine gems of Mallorca are worth seeking out, especially reds made from the native local varieties Manto Negro and Callet and whites from Premsal Blanco.

If you go, here are some spots not to miss:

Perlas Majorica--Mallorca's famous faux pearls are manufactured here in the small town of Manacor. Guests can view the process and purchase items at factory direct pricing.





Restaurant Ca'n March--a few blocks from Perlas Majorica, this quaint restaurant specializes in traditional and modern Mallorca cuisine and makes a perfect stop between wine tastings.







Oliver Moragues and Finca de Binicomprat--a rustic bed & breakfast and winery located in the village of Algaida, a mere 20 minutes from Palma, which specializes in red wines from Callet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Vins Toni Gelabert--a small family-owned winery outside the town of Manacor, which produces a range of both red and white wines. Appointment necessary.

Anima Negra--one of the few wineries that exports to the U.S. which produces the following stellar wines:

Quibia 2006--white blend of Premsal Blanc and Muscat. Over the top aromatics with peach, pineapple and citrus notes with an undertone of fresh herbs, full-bodied with a creamy palate

AN/2 2005--red blend of Callet, Manto Negro with a dash of Syrah. Juicy black cherry and plum fruit along with cedar and cigar box notes. Smooth and light with soft ripe tannins.

AN 2004--red blend of Callet and Manto Negro. Intense savory aromas of leather and spice plus dried cranberry, plum and cassis notes, smooth with ripe tannins, persistent finish.


Es Moli Den Bou Restaurant--For Mallorca's best gastronomic experience, a visit to this Michelin starred spot is a must. Set in the base of an old windmill in the village of Sant Llorenç des Cardassar, Es Moli Den Bou features creative Mallorcan cuisine from Chef Tomeu Caldentey. Splurge and go for the Gran Tasting menu, which features a dizzying seven courses plus a number of 'surprise' items from the chef. Ask the Sommelier to pair your meal with local Mallorcan wines.

My recent visit included the following Gran Tasting Menu:

Prawns with "Venere" rice, mushrooms and Mahon cheese
Scallops with Foie
Baclao with mushrooms, parsley and garlic oil
Loin of deer with grapes and red wine sauce
Cheeseboard
Pine nuts with caramel
Chocolate with Coffee

The cheeseboard was met with a surprise twist; instead of the traditional spread of artisan cheeses, a luscious bowl of goat cheese ice cream appeared. Simply stunning!


And while in Palma, a visit to the Puro Hotel is a must. The uber-chic hotel combines style, funky-vibes, signature cocktails and a menu of Asian-Mediterranean inspired nibbles. Puro makes a great stop after a day of sightseeing and shopping around the Old City. Snatch up one of the hotel's signature music discs as a souvenir of your visit.

For more information on Mallorcan Wine Routes, visit the Agro Routes page on the Ministry of Agriculture's website.

Hook, Line and Sinker

The hunt begins for a new seafood oriented wine list I am writing to be launched later this year and what better excuse to sample a few seafood whites than during the mock service dinner at Hook, a new seafood spot in Georgetown with Chef Barton Seaver at the helm.

I opted to bring a few of my own wine choices for the evening not because Hook's list is lacking imagination, but I had been dying to try a few items I had tucked away in the wine cellar. The wine list at Hook has plenty of excitement; look for a very eclectic collection of wines ranging from the Oremus Tokaji Dry Furmint 'Mandolás' from Hungary to the Xarmant Txakolina from Spain (which is being offered by the glass). A good mix of known grape varietals and the unknown. I wouldn't expect anything less from Chef Seaver, who chooses the wines.

On the docket for the evening were the Bainbridge Island Vineyards Müller-Thurgau from Pugent Sound, Washington; the Huber Sauvignon Blanc from Traisental, Austria; and the Frogtown Cellars Rousanne from Lumpkin County, Georgia (that's the state, not the country folks).

And now the tasting notes:

2002 Bainbridge Island Vineyards Müller-Thurgau, Puget Sound, Washington--an interesting dry version of the grape with notes of lime peel, white flowers, hint of orange blossom, crisp and dry. Great for oysters.

2005 Huber Sauvignon Blanc, Traisental, Austria--not your average SB, this one bursts forth with ripe tropical fruit aromas, white peach and apricot flavors and a refreshing finish. Great with salad greens and smoked salmon.


2003 Frogtown Cellars Rousanne, Lumpkin County, Georgia--full and rich with notes of almond, honeysuckle and mango. A tad oily but good for rich seafood items like scallops, salmon or swordfish.


Hook
3241 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007
202.625.4488

SF--Just Do It!

Going to SF (as in San Francisco)? You gotta check out the following spots:

Bocadillos--a newly opened spot near North Beach for Spanish and Basque tapas.

Must haves: fried calamari with romesco sauce, catalan sausage bocadillo with arugula and shaved manchego, and a glass of Txakoli, a fresh, white Basque wine.

Supperclub SF--sister to spots in Rome and Amsterdam, this is one of the most unique dining experiences I have seen. Kick-off your shoes and have dinner 'in bed' with a few of your closest friends. Ever-changing five-course 'surprise' menu.

Must haves: a sense of humor and a bottle of Champagne.

VinoVenue--a newish wine tasting-retail spot in the SOMA district. Customers purchase 'tasting cards' of varying denominations and place into tasting tasting to receive one ounce pours which range from $1 to $28.

Must haves: a taste of one of the reserve wines, like the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.

Beard Papa's--brand new Japanese sweets cafe for amazing cream puffs and eclairs. Choose from vanilla bean, chocolate or the flavor of the week (strawberry, green tea, caramel).

Must haves: A cup 'o Joe and time to walk off those spare calories, preferably up SF's magnificent hills.

Rosenblum Cellars--just a short ferry ride across the bay to Alameda to this warehouse-cum-tasting room for award-winning wines.

Must haves: Zinfandel 2004, San Francisco Bay--ripe plum, candied cherries with hints of earth and chocolate. Soft tannins.

'Rominger Vineyards' Syrah 2003, Yolo County--big, fat and delicious. Chewy cherry and ripe plum aromas with spice and chocolate notes. Round mouthfeel and velvety tannins.

'Rockpile Road' Petite Sirah 2004, Napa Valley--intense blackberry, smokey and cedar aromas, thick and fat on the palate, silky tannins.


Plan your future escape online at www.wheresf.com

Bocadillos photo copyright Andrew Stover, other photos courtesy of their respective websites.

Vin in Raleigh

Would you believe that one of America's hottest wine bars is located in Raleigh, North Carolina? Well, believe it. Located in an old ice cream factory in downtown Raleigh lies the hip and friendly Enoteca Vin. Exposed brick walls, wood floors, a large wrap-around bar, 30-bottle cruvinet system and Ashley Christiansen's American-French-Mediterranean fusion cuisine combine to create a food and wine mecca in the good ol' South.

Dishes not to miss:

Wagyu Beef Tartare with Fallot Mustard and Cornichon

Cauliflower Soup with Braised Apple and Black Tea Cured Bacon

Pommes Frites with Malt Vinegar Mayonnaise

Braised Kurobuta Pork Shoulder with Goat Cheese Gnocchi, Lentils, Roasted Beets and Mint

Brown Butter Scallops with Chanterelles, Pink-eyed Peas and Crispy Collards

For wine, diners can choose from over 50 wines by the glass and a reserve list of old wines, including a 1978 Meursault from Jobard--for a mere $125 a bottle. By the glass wines can be sampled in various sizes: 1.5 ounce, 3 ounce, and 5 ounce--perfect for creating a customized flight.

Wines to try:


2002 FX Pichler Riesling Smaragd 'Steinertal', Austria--steely, mineral notes, bit of petrol and lime peel. Smooth, medium bodied, lingering finish. Dry.

1999 Prager Chardonnay Smaragd 'Weissenkirchen', Austria--aromas of honey, apricot, straw, earthy undertones, seems unoaked. Rich. Medium bodied.

2001 Eric Ross 'Saralee's' Pinot Noir, Russian River--cherry and red raspberry aromas, sweet spice and floral undertones. Light tannins, easy drinking.

2004 Bedford Road Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand--dark plum and fresh raspberry notes, touch of herbal aromas with earthy undertones. Medium bodied.

410 Glenwood Avenue
Raleigh, North Carolina
919.834.3070

Photos coutesy of chiefwino.com

Pumpkin Pie Anyone?

Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar celebrates fall with a special six-course Pumpkin Tasting Menu with wine pairings. Chef Richard Brandenburg has created a sumptuous menu using pumpkin (which is a fruit by the way) in a number of unexpected ways. Wines have been paired by nationally-renowned wine consultant, Leslie Sbrocco, author of the newly released book, The Simple & Savvy Wine Guide.

Earlier this week I had the opportunity to sample the spectacular menu with Leslie Sbrocco while discussing her new book. Here is a run down of the pairings:

Slivered Scallop Ceviche and Roasted Pumpkin with Arugula and Peppers
Paired with Hoffstater Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy

Wine Notes: aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle, zesty lemon citrus on the palate, crisp finish. Nice acid for pairing with the scallops and acidity of the dish.

Crispy Sardine and Pumpkin Confit with White Balsamic Ginger Sauce
Paired with Michele Chiarlo Cotese de Gavi, Veneto, Italy

Wine Notes: Full and rich with honey and lemon citrus notes. Medium bodied. Not a horrible pairing; however, the wine seemed a bit dry for the sweetness of the pumpkin confit. A riesling or traminer from Alto Adige would have been a better selection.

Bone Marrow Ravioli and Pumpkin Risotto with Basil Pesto
Paired with Antinori Cervaro Della Sala, Umbria, Italy

Wine Notes: Blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto. Powerful and rich, apricot and sherry-like nut aromas, with earthy/mushroomy notes on the palate. Full-bodied. Great pairing with the nutty flavors of the risotto and pumpkin seeds. Also good body match.

Savory Pumpkin Pie and Roast Quail with Wild Mushrooms and Port Sauce
Paired with d'Arenberg 'Ironstone Pressings' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre, McLaren Vale, Australia

Wine Notes: An amazing wine from the 1999 vintage. Aromas of dried cranberry, mushroom/earth notes, a touch of cedar. Medium-bodied. Matches well with the quail and mushrooms. Pumpkin pie is amazing....very savory as no sugar is added.


Venison Loin with Pumpkin Ice Cream, Morello Cherry Sauce and Chesnut Puree
Paired with Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc Barolo, Piedmont, Italy

Wine Notes: Aromas of dark cherry with a hint of chocolate, smooth on the palate with a big tannin bite. Could have been softened through decanting. Nice match for the meat and also the cherry and nut flavors in the dish.

Pumpkin Spiced Cake and Mascarpone Cream
Paired with Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhone Valley, France

Wine notes: aromas of spice and apricot followed by a touch of honeysuckle on the palate. Sweet enough to handle the dessert but not overly cloying (too sweet/thick). Nice body match between wine and dessert.

The Pumpkin Tasting Menu is offered through Thanksgiving for $60 plus $20 for the wine flight.

Urbana Restaurant & Wine Bar
2121 P Street, NW
Washington, DC 20036
202.956.6650

Photo courtesy of Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar

A Little Sweet, A Little Savory

Whew! Summer has abruptly come to an end and I need to catch up on a few of the exciting spots I've visited over the summer (think Chicago, Vancouver, Okanagan Valley, San Francisco....)

First up: The July Chicago adventure featuring Sweets and Savories and Chef David Richards' modern take on classic French cuisine.

After being delayed one day due to nasty weather which forced the closure of O'Hare International Airport (imagine that...problems at O'Hare), I finally arrived in the Windy Cindy for a little adventure with my friend Andrea. We descended upon a quaint French spot called Sweets and Savories in Lincoln Park.

Once inside, the petit restaurant glowed with pink and brown tones and an upscale Parisian bistro feel (complete with vintage French tunes). Paul, the General Manager, announced "there's no menu tonight. Is there anything you cannot eat?" Oh boy, a Chef's tasting!

And what a Chef's tasting indeed--beginning with the soon to be banned seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras topped with caramelized pineapple and chocolate sauce--it literally melts in your mouth. (Unfortunately the Chicago Council has since banned the sale of Foie Gras. Damn those PETA people!)

The Foie Gras was followed by a curried potato leek soup with green apples and olive oil paired with the Alain Roy Montagny 1er Cru Burgundy (light, crisp, with notes of green apple, lemon citrus and mineral undertones).

Each subsequent course seemed better than the last: fennel and orange salad; seafood ceviche; pan roasted Alaskan Halibut with heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn butter, lobster velouté and baby cress; and finally, grilled beef tenderloin with sauce Perigord, haricot verte and lobster mashed potatoes.

After six courses, I couldn't stuff in another bite. And then...The 'sweets' arrived--Bartlett pear sorbet and their infamous blueberry cream soda, two amazing treats not to be wasted. Seven courses and three hours later, I ordered an eighth course: fresh wheelchair served with side of assistance back to my hotel.

Sweets and Savories
1534 West Fullerton Avenue
Chicago, IL 60614
773.281.6778


Photo courtesy Sweets and Savories

Le Bar-A-Vin

Enjoy this feature I have running in the October issue of Where Washington Magazine.

Begone mint juleps!

Washington, DC loves wine.

The capital leads the nation in per capita sales and consumption of wine. Could it be those embassy soirees? Those lobbyist-politico schmooze fests? Nooooo. Credit these stats to the growing sophistication of Washington diners, who ask that their food be paired with something more exciting than the house Chardonnay. But wine matters not just at the big-list, power steakhouses. Consider the latest trend: the wine bar-cum-restaurant, in France le bar-a vin, that touts unique and esoteric vintages and contemporary foods to match.


Bar Pilar

Locale: In the hoppin’ 14th and U zone, 2 blocks from the U-Cardoza Metro and next-door to neighborhood fave and sister spot, Café Saint-Ex.

Feel: Reminiscent of a Parisian wine bistro—dimly lit, exposed brick walls, antique wrap-around wood bar and nautical artifacts. “Pilar,” after all, takes it name from the beloved boat of a famed barfly, Ernst Hemingway. Must see (after a few glasses of vino): the instant photo booth in the rear.

Scene: Casual crowd of 20- and 30-somethings from the neighborhood and a smattering of out-of-towners

List: Small, yet smart and well-priced. Choices range from boutique Italian, Spanish, and French, with a few Californians, to bottles from Greece and Slovenia. Glasses $4-8, bottles $16-70.

Food: Chef Barton Seaver keeps changing his Italian inspired small bites, all designed for pairing. Think potatoes and Moroccan paprika aioli paired with 1+1=3 Xarel-lo, a light and refreshing white from the Penedes region of Spain, or seared ahi tuna with pea shoots paired with Rose of Cabernet from Domaine de Montmarin of the Languedoc region, southern France.

1833 14th Street, NW, 202.265.1765
Washington, DC

Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar

Locale: Two blocks southeast of the Capitol on a bustling stretch of Penn Ave.

Feel: Upscale bistro with exposed brick walls, cozy seating and a long bar for mix-and-mingle. Upstairs an intimate lounge with sofas.

Scene: An energized crowd of late 20s-30s Hill-staffers, Capitol Hill denizens and maybe a Congressman or two.

List: Over 40 wines “on tap” (à la cruvinet) by the glass and half-glass and 100 by the bottle, most from Sonoma County, CA and Italy.

Food: Drew Trautmann’s unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine, honoring organic ingredients and local produce. Think squash blossom-goat cheese ravioli with Margaret Anne Tocai/Arneis of Mendocino County, a zingy, fresh white with notes of green apple, lemon and racy acidity. Or local sweet corn risotto, chanterelles and in-house prosciutto with Ascheri Dolcetto d’Alba, a light, fruity Piedmontese red.

223 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, 202.544.8088
Washington, DC


Tallula Restautant

Locale: Hip Clarendon ‘hood in Arlington, Virginia at Washington Blvd. and Pershing Drive. Façade’s neon sign says EAT!

Feel: Unpretentious pair of lounges plus dining room and adjoining wine shop for take-out.

Scene: Neighborhood spot for after-work crowd—bureaucrats, young professionals, even Boomers.

List: More than 70 by the glass or half glass, 300 by the bottle, some “boutique” bottlings under catchy heds like “tickling your nose,” “wickedly ponderous.”

Food: Nathan Anda’s spins on classic American include fried green tomatoes paired with Champalou Vouvray, a slightly off-dry white with notes of peach, white flower and zingy acidity. Also seared foie gras and caramelized pineapple with Lillypilly Noble Blend, an intense, luxurious dessert wine with notes of orange blossom and tropical fruit. Note: the Amuse Yourself menu of bites like baby burger with black truffle butter, duck spring roll, beer-battered corn dog, steak tartare.

2761 Washington Boulevard, 703.778.5051
Arlington, VA

Oya Restaurant & Lounge
(Yours truly developed this wine program.)

Locale: One-half block north of the Gallery Place Metro and the Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery in the hoppin’ Penn Quarter.

Feel: Show-biz LA meets Miami with a red crocodile skin bar, white leather lounge seats, 2.5 ton chain-link curtain and a 20-foot waterfall.

Scene: A mix of late 20s to 40s crowd with the occasional celebrity (recent sightings: Hillary Clinton, Wolf Blitzer, Patrick Ewing). Weekday sushi cocktail hour.

List: Esoteric mix of international wines divided into flavor profiles (think fresh/lip-smacking whites, juicy/savory reds) plus a few Virginia wines from star producers. Wines by half-glass complement small plates.

Food: Jonathan Seningen’s French-Asian small plates and Chef Tu’s sushi rolls. Think hanger steak and horseradish flan paired with Santa Barbara Winery Syrah, an intense red with aromas of black currant, leather and a touch of spice, or seared chicken with peanut dressing and pea shoots served with a glass of Blenheim Vineyards Chardonnay from Dave Matthews’ winery in Charlottesville.

777 9th Street, NW, 202.393.1400
Washington, DC

Bardeo

Locale: Cleveland Park’s restaurant row, few steps south of the Cleveland Park Metro and beside fine dining sibling Ardeo.



Feel: Contemporary vibes from sleek purple leather booths, long marble bar and intriguing photography by Russian émigré artists the Gerlovins.

Scene: Smart after-work crowd of young professionals stopping for a quick bite and ‘hood folks, some famed journalists, who can’t resist create-your-own wine flights.

List: Full glass, half glass or flights from interesting Old and New World wines.

Food: Christopher Bradley’s American small plates: goat cheese salad (beets, baby frisée and walnuts) paired with Valdelainos Verdejo, a crisp Spanish white, or tuna melt panini paired with Tyrrell’s “Lost Block” Pinot Noir from Australia.

3311 Connecticut Avenue, NW, 202.244.6550
Washington, DC

Vino Volo

Locale: Bustling Terminal C at Dulles International Airport, next to Gate C4!

Feel: Atypical, upscale lounge with warm woods, leather club chairs, wrap-around tasting bar and a shop for wine on the fly. The name is a clever play on “wine flight.”

Scene: Mix of business and leisure travelers killing time before their next departure.

List: Organized as eight themed tasting flights (like Taste of Virginia, California Kings, Barbecue Reds).

Food: Snack-sized small plates paired to the themed flights. Sample chickpea and sausage chili paired with Artesa Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a robust red with black currant, black olive and vanilla notes, or smoked salmon rolls paired with Rappahannock Cellars Viognier, a Virginia wine with intoxicating tropical fruit aroma.

Washington Dulles International Airport, Terminal C, 703.661.1999
Dulles, VA


Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar

Locale: Beside the glam Hotel Palomar two and a half blocks west of Dupont Circle.

Feel: Swank with dim lights, velvet couches, dramatic wall of ‘U’-labeled wines and open kitchen.

Scene: Hip crowd of travelers and ‘hoodies from late 20s and up.

List: A large book of California, French and Italian wines by the glass or quartino (one and a half glasses of wine)

Food: Imaginative northern Italian and southern French cuisine by Chef Richard Brandenburg. Faves: corn-battered, gorgonzola-stuffed figs with balsamic drizzle paired with Nino Franco Prosecco, a light-hearted bubbly with green apple and pear aromas, or pea agnolotti (sp?) with lobster and chorizo paired with Teruzzi e Puthod’s Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a refreshing Tuscan white with floral and almond notes.

2121 P Street, NW, 202.956.6650
Washington, DC


Charlie Palmer Steak

Locale: One block from the U.S. Capitol anchoring a sleek office building at Constitution Avenue and Louisiana Avenue.

Feel: Power dining without the stuffy steakhouse décor thanks to large, open dining areas, a gurgling waterfall and mod furnishings like oversized leather chairs. Horizontal, showcase wine cellar flanks the passage from bar to dining.

Scene: Powerbrokers from Capitol Hill, K Street lobbyists, plus foodies in the know.

List: All-American wines from 40 of the 50 states. Sommelier Nadine Brown says, “The last 10 states are extremely difficult to source because of antiquated liquor laws.” Amen.

Food: Progressive American fare by Bryan Voltaggio. One fine match of terroir: grilled Idaho wagyu sirloin paired with the powerful and rich Sawtooth Syrah from Snake River, also Idaho. Or grilled peach and blue cheese salad paired with Montinore Estate Gewürtztraminer of Oregon, a white with rose petal and lychee nut aromas and a crisp finish.

101 Constitution Avenue, NW, 202.547.8100
Washington, DC



Photos of Oya, Bardeo, Vino Volo courtesy of the restaurants; photos of Bar Pilar, Tallula, Sonoma by Andrew Stover

IDAHO--More Than Just potatoes

In my neverending quest for the next up-and-coming wine region, I sauntered into Charlie Palmer Steak DC this evening to see what's cookin' with their all-American wine program.

Charlie Palmer Steak DC has an interesting mix of wines--all from the United States. Their goal is to have one wine from each of the 50 states on their menu---however, certain state and local regs prevent some wineries from exporting outside their state boundaries. So far, they have amassed wines from 40 different states...and the last 10 are apparently more difficult to acquire. Don't even get me started on the whole three-tier system and how wholesalers bottle-neck small artesian producers from selling their wares outside state lines. That is a story for another day...

I had been reading about wines from Idaho in various online and print wine media. So far, the press seems encouraging. And why not? The climate for some of the vineyards mirrors that of the great Columbia Valley in Washington State. Consumers don't seem to turn their noses up at Washington State wines, so Idaho wines might be just as good, right? Anyone else have a comment on this?

I parked myself at the bar and started chatting it up with one of the bartenders. My visit to CP Steak was not necessarily just for fun--I was doing some research for a wine bar article I am writing for Where Magazine's Dining Guide.

After I studied the mammoth wine list, Nadine Brown, CP Steak's Sommelier, came over to chat me up. She explained their program and the difficulty in sourcing some of the wines. I asked her to note a few favorites, which included great choices from California, Washington and Oregon, plus a little beauty from Idaho--the Sawtooth Winery Syrah from the Snake River Valley. "It's an incredible wine. We sell quite a bit," she exclaimed.

Sounds good to me. Send it over.

HOLY MOLY. This is some tasty stuff. Did I mention it's from IDAHO?

Sawtooth Winery Syrah 2002, Snake River Valley, Idaho--rich and brooding, with notes of ripe black fruits, chocolate, cedar and a touch of vanilla and earth. An explosion of black currant and chocolate on the palate. Medium body. Velvety texture. Lingering finish of black fruits. A stellar companion to CP Steak's Wagyu Sirloin, which also happens to be sourced from the Snake River Valley.

Try that combo for an unusual pairing of place with place.


Images from charliepalmer.com and sawtoothwinery.com

Wine Bar Divine

A good wine bar is hard to find. A good wine bar is even harder to find in Washington, DC. Sure there are a number of amazing culinary gems with rockin' wine lists in DC, yet nothing quite like the bar-a-vins of Paris.

Enter: Bar Pilar.

Located in the hoppin' 14th and U Street corridor, Bar Pilar is reminiscent of a cozy Parisian wine bistro in both atmosphere and flavor--specifically, it reminds me of a spot in Paris called L'Ecluse near the Champs Elysées (64, Rue François 1er, 75008 Paris).

From the creators of Café Saint-Ex, Bar Pilar features a daily changing menu of Italian and Spanish inspired small plates and a small, yet smart wine list, with most wines by the glass under $7.

The menu features items such as chorizo with white beans, eggplant ratatouille, potatoes sauteed in olive oil and garlic with a Moroccan paprika ailoi, seared tuna with pea shoots, and beet carpaccio with goat cheese, mint and pine nuts.

Wines at Bar Pilar are generally on the esoteric side, focusing on small, boutique Italian, French and Spanish wines, with a few domestic options and even selections from Greece and Slovenia.

Of particular interest were the Anselmi Garganega, an aromatic white with notes of white peach, citrus and rose petal; the 1+1=3 Xarel-lo, a fantastic, crisp and refreshing white made from one of the native Spanish Cava grapes; and the La Place Tannat from Southwestern France, a robust red with notes of earth, cedar and dried red fruits.

If the menu and wine list alone aren't enough to persuade a visit, certainly the photo booth at the rear of the restaurant is worth a peek--especially after a few glasses of vino.




Bar Pilar
1833 14th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202.265.1751



Images from www.barpilar.com

A Tale of Two Sushis

It has been a while since I have posted on any restaurants in the DC area. A couple recent experiences seem to warrant mention: a good one and a not so good one.

Lately, I've been in sushi mode. But not just boring 'ol California rolls, rather the more exotic rolls, such as tuna tempura roll with spicy sauce or crunchy tuna roll. These types of rolls, while not overly authentic Japanese sushi, are much the rage in many restaurant-cum-sushi bars.

Case in point: Oya Restaurant & Lounge on 9th Street, NW and Maté on K Street at the Georgetown waterfront. Both spots have extensive sushi menus, including sashimi, nigiri, maki, and the more exotic maki as mentioned above.

After Signatures on Pennsylvania Avenue shut its doors, Chef Tu Soe packed up and moved onto Oya, taking with him an innovative array of sushi rolls, including a spicy vege roll with carrot, apple and yellow pepper and the crispy tuna roll with tuna, scallions, cucumber and crispy potato flakes.

One of my favorites is the tuna tempura roll: lightly breaded in tempura batter and flash fried, accompanied by a spicy seven pepper sauce. The hearts of palm roll is equally as good and comes with avocado and a sweet soy sauce. The sushi at Oya is definitely some of the best and most interesting in DC.

I am not alone in this opinion as I hear quite a buzz among other foodies when discussing the subject. In fact, a friend of mine who works for Indebleu seems obsessed with the sushi at Oya. I suppose it doesn't hurt that Oya offers a sushi happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 pm-8 pm in the lounge area. Nothing beats $5 sushi rolls!

My 'not so much' experience took place this evening at Maté in Georgetown. Upon entering the chic space, I asked our server if she had any Maté on the menu. I figured a restaurant with the name Maté would most likely serve the South American specialty. She had no idea that Maté is a drink. I would think that if a restaurant is named after a popular South America tea, then the staff should probably at least know what it is, even if it is not on the menu. In fact, I can't quite figure out why the restaurant is called Maté, other than their paltry selection of South American wines. Sure the menu combines latin flavors with sushi...but Malbec with sushi? Not so much.

I let my initial impressions slide and decided to try some of the exotic maki offerings. The Buenos Aires roll sounded good: jumbo lump crab with torched salmon and tempura crunch with a drizzle of wasabi mayo. The crab was not jumbo lump and seemed as if it had seen better days. Yes, it is Sunday, but....

The sweet & spicy roll sounded interesting as well--spicy tuna with sweet plantains. I was not really digging the sweet banana flavors along with the spicy tuna. Same for the tamalito roll: yellowtail with jalapeño, avocado, plantains & corn masa wrapped in a daikon radish skin. This roll wouldn't be bad if the corn masa were removed. I guess I just can't get into the latin flavors fused with sushi.

To Maté's credit, the volcano roll was quite good: shrimp tempura topped with a seared spicy crab salad.


Oya Retaurant & Lounge
777 9th Street, NW
202.393.1400

Maté
3101 K Street, NW
202.333.2006

NOLA: Alive & Kicking

Just back from a biz trip to the BIG EASY (aka New Orleans). Indeed some of the shops and restaurants are still closed, especially on Canal Street, yet most of the French Quarter spots are up and running and waiting for your visit.


A spot not to miss: NOLA Restaurant from the infamous Emeril Lagasse. NOLA is a fun and funky spot, just a few blocks off Bourbon Street, where Lagasse serves up fresh takes on New Orleans Creole and Acadian Cajun cuisine. The two-level spot features exposed brick-walls and an informal atmosphere with serious cuisine.

My advice: try the Chef's Tasting, which features a four-course menu of the Chef's daily specials with an optional wine pairing. This was my second experience with the Chef's Tasting and wine pairings and both visits were outstanding.

The highlights of the most recent meal included:

Salad

Smoked pork and aged Cheddar quesadilla with baby spinach, grilled tomato, shaved red onions and toasted coriander v

Wine: 2005 Kilikanoon Riesling 'Mort's Block' Watervale, Clare Valley, Australia--crisp and clean, with notes of pear, apple, hint of peach, dry, piercing acidity

Appetizer

Flash fried calamari with San Marzano tomato sauce, Kalamata olives, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese

Wine: 2004 La Mozza Tocai Friulano 'Bastianch', Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy--fresh and clean, with notes of orange blossom, pear, hint of lemon citrus. Crisp finish.

Entrée

Braised beef short ribs with grilled asparagus, jasmine rice, hazelnuts, ginger-plume glaze and natural jus

Wine: 2003 Monticelli Brothers 'Mario' Sangiovese, Napa, California--notes of sweet cherry, spice, toasted oak, a dash of vanilla, smooth, silky, moderate tannins.

Dessert

Bittersweet chocolate-hazelnut torte with Grand Marnier crème Anglaise, candided hanzelnuts and fresh berries

Wine: 2003 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva 'Cosecha Miel', Alicante, Spain--rich and honeyed, with notes of peach, candied fruits, honey, silky texture.


NOLA Restaurant
534 St. Louis Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504.522.6652

Restaurant interior image from www.emerils.com

Philly is More Fun When You Sleep Over...

Yes, indeed, Philly is more fun when you sleep over--because after you roll out of bed, head down to South Philly and enjoy one of the area's best weekend Brunches at Beau Monde. Located one block south of South Street, at the corner of 6th and Bainbridge, Beau Monde is a crêpe lovers dream.

Beau Monde uses imported flat round, cast-iron crêpe griddles to create a lavish array of savory entrée and dessert style crêpes. Fillings range from simple to complex; tomato with sauteed onions, garlic and basil to the rich Coq a Vin with Swiss cheese and herb butter. I opt to try one of the brunch specials: scrambled eggs with roasted Poblano peppers, tomatoes, Swiss cheese, avocado corn salsa & caramelized tomato sauce. Absolutely amazing! Not to mention the French onion soup was among one of the best I have tasted in any establishment. After indulging on brunch, a dessert crêpe seemed a good idea--as if I needed it. A sweet caramel and white cholocate sauce filled crêpe was exactly what was needed to finish off a lazy Saturday morning in the city of Brotherly Love.

Crêperie Beau Monde
624 South 6th Street
Philadelphia, PA
215.592.0656

Photo courtesy of www.creperie-beaumonde.com

Memories of Brazil

It was a lazy Saturday afternoon and I awoke around 1 pm. Winter just has that affect on you sometimes. I brew up a fresh pot of java; decided to dig into my supply of souvenir java acquired in Porto Alegre, Brazil last year. I swear that stuff has sugar added prior to brewing. Add some milk and settle in reading the morning news.

Two hours later, the phone buzzes. "Have you eaten?" asked Shan. "No, not yet. Why? What do you have in mind? Bistro d'Oc?" I ask. "Hmmmm. Was thinking something big. Maybe Fogo de Chão?" he says. Flashbacks of succulent meat heaped onto a plate race through my mind; waiters dressed in traditional Gaucho garb who don't stop serving you until you've turned the hunger indicator card to red..."PLEASE STOP." Fogo it is and why the heck not? I love a good Brazilian meat fest--especially with a good red wine.

4:30 pm. We arrive. Step into the lobby, prepared to be the only table in the restaurant as its so early for dinner on a Saturday downtown. To my surprise, the place is literally PACKED. I guess word has gotten out that Fogo is a good spot to feed a meat craving. After being seated, we take on the salad bar. Danger--the salad bar is so good, one might get full on veggies and antipasti. We opt to sample a number of items, but save room for the main event.


Time to choose wine. Fogo has a very well-rounded list, focusing on South America and California. I was very impressed to see a selection of Brazilian wines from Miolo, a spot I visited last year in the Vale dos Vinhedos in Southern Brazil. Most are available only by the bottle, except the Pinot Noir, which is on the glass list. We both go for a glass of the Pinot, which wasn't exactly the highlight of the visit. It was a bit green, thin, and over-oaked. To the surprise of many, Brazil has quite a robust wine industry. Shall save that for another post.

And now, the main event: the MEAT. 15 different cuts: pork, chicken, lamb and beef served table-side in a continuous fashion until you flip the card on the table from green to red, indicating you've had enough. Along with the meat comes an assortment of sides: crispy polenta, pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread), garlic mashed potatoes, and fried bananas. Three notable meats to sample: the bacon wrapped chicken breast, parmesan crusted pork and the Picanha, which is a sirloin cut. All meats are fire-roasted and seasoned perfectly with garlic and sea salt. The experience brought back memories of my visit to Porto Alegre and Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil--except Fogo is better than the churrascarias I happened upon last year.


After roughly 2 hours, Shan and I were ready to be wheeled out. Good thing neither of us had eaten prior to our Fogo visit. We hobbled back to his place, cracked open a bottle of Shiraz and called it a night.

Fogo de Chão has multiple locations in the U.S. and 4 locations in Brazil.

Fogo de Chão
1101 Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Washington, DC
(202) 347-4668


Pictures courtesy of Fogo de Chão

A Flight of Bubbly

Last week I experienced two of life's great pleasures: Yannick Cam's Le Paradou and a flight of the Cuvée des Moines Champagnes from Besserat de Bellefon. For a limited time, Chef Cam is offering the Bellefon flight, which upon request is paired with three amuse bouche.

First up: The Bellefon Brut NV paired with Chef's signature amuse, which he created while at Le Pavillon, the scallop ragout egg.

The wine: delicate floral and yeast aromas. Full and rich on the palate with notes of hazlenut, apple and pears. Crisp, racy acidity. Lingering hazelnut finish.

The amuse: scallop ragout, with white corn, lobster juice and caviar atop. Served in a brown eggshell.


Number two: Blanc de Blancs paired with seared tuna

The wine: sweet floral aromas with a hint of citrus and hazlenut. Honeyed notes on the palate and a light, refreshing texture. Short finish.

The amuse: seared tuna on a bed of red onions, coriander shoots and blood orange sauce.

Last, but not least: Bellefon Rosé NV paired with foie gras atop dried plum pudding

The wine: notes of fresh strawberries and almond. Fleshy and delicate on the palate with a persistant finish.

The amuse: foie gras atop dried plum pudding in a vin de paille reduction(vin de paille is a wine from the Jura region of France made from dried grapes).

If you enjoy fine french cuisine and fine Champagne, a visit to Le Paradou for this special flight and pairing is a must.

Le Paradou
678 Indiana Avenue, NW
Washington, DC
Reservations: 202.347.6780


Le Paradou pictures courtesy of www.leparadou.net; Bellefon bottle courtesy of www.bellefon.com

Rasika: A Feast for the Senses

Just when I thought the Penn Quarter Neighborhood in downtown DC was 'hot' enough, another chic spot opens its doors. Rasika, the latest venture from Ashok Bajaj, owner of Bombay Club, 701 Restaurant, The Oval Room, Ardeo and Bardeo, is a feast for the senses.

The name, Rasika, which means flavors in Sanskrit, combines a refined and elegant atmosphere with a menu of modern Indian fare. Bajaj has created a warm and inviting dining room, complete with earth tone colors, an open showcase kitchen, and cozy lounge and bar area. At first glance of the menu, you will notice a variety of small plate dishes, ideal for sharing, along with larger sized entrees. The wine list covers both old and new world selections designed to pair well with the chef's creations.

This evening, I had the opportunity to experience Rasika with two of my clients. The food was ABSOLUTELY amazing. We decided to order a number of small plate items in order to get a feel for the entire menu. My favorite was one suggested by our sever, which happened to be one of the restaurant's signature items. The Palak Chaat--crispy spinach served with sweet yogurt, tamarind and date chutney was absolutely mouth-watering. I was a bit skeptical upon reading the description (crispy spinach???), but was simply blown away, not only by the texture, but the sheer flavor of the dish.

For wine, we sampled a bottle of Tissot Crémant du Jura: a dry, sparkling wine from the French Alps. The Crémant was a perfect match to our menu selections: dry and crisp with mouth-watering acidity, which cleansed the palate after each bite.

Rasika is a must try for your next visit to the Penn Quarter!

Rasika
633 D Street, NW
Washington, DC
202.637.1222

Pictures courtesy of Rasika

Gastronomy in Madrid: The Fast

Ferran Adrià is widely regarded as one of Spain's most influential chefs. His cuisine is marked by startling combinations of texture, temperature and taste. Foodies in the know are familiar with Adrià and his culinary accomplishments and hundreds flock each year to the isolated village of Rosas, on Spain's Costa Brava, north of Barcelona, to experience Adrià's El Bulli. Reservations must be made a year in advance and the restaurant is only open six months of the year--how is that for an example of supply and demand!

In addition to El Bulli, Adrià consults on a number of projects throughout Spain, including a fast food concept with the NH Hotel chain. Fast Good is more or less a gourmet fast food establishment, serving up quality burgers and take-away eats in a setting of plastic designer furniture. The menu features a variety of hot and cold foods, including pre-made sandwiches, paninis, fresh salads, juices, as well as the signature menu item, the burger.

I try my hand at the Good Burger--a gourmet burger set on a toasted bun with aioli and a bed of arugula served with a side of French fries. I also sampled a few of the cold take-away items: a chicken curry mini-sandwich and a bottle of freshly made, tangy gazpacho--served in a plastic juice container.

Who says fast food can't be gourmet? McDonald's eat your heart out!

Fast Good
Calle Padre Damián, 23
(In the NH Eurobuilding Hotel, Metro-Cuzco)
+34 91 343 06 55
Madrid, Spain

Average price from 9 to 18 euros

Gastronomy in Madrid: The Haute

A visit to Spain is not complete without experiencing nouveau Spanish cuisine. We've heard the names before: Ferran Adria from El Bulli and Sergi Arola of La Broche--two of Spain's most influential chefs. Unfortunately I experienced neither as El Bulli is booked a year in advance and there was no time to experience Arola's La Broche.

But fear not, I DID experience one of Madrid's temples of Gastronomy: El Chaflan. Located north of the main business district in a non-descript 3-star hotel, El Chaflan is headed up by Chef Juan Pablo Felipe, winner of Spain's National Prize for Gastronomy in 2001. The decor is minimalist with subtle oriental flair. But decor aside, the cuisine is center stage here.

I cannot begin to explain the sheer pleasure of my experience at El Chaflan. I opted for the 12-course Chef's tasting with wines paired by the Sommelier, who happened to be from Tokyo. His English was by far the best of any of the other staff at the establishment.

The show began with an amuse bouche of Spanish Cava served with a dash of raspberry liqueur and frothed egg white on top. An incredible and interesting way to begin the journey. The amuse bouche was followed by a small cup of zucchini fries and aioli. Plate after plate, El Chaflan never ceased to amaze.

Finally, the dessert trio arrived. First was a cheese course of five different Spanish cheeses paired with various items: mini-biscuits, quince preserve, nuts and a dab of sweet muscat sauce--an artist's canvas on a plate.


The final taste was probably one of the most interesting of the presentations: a sampling of sweets served with a glass of PX dessert wine--a perfect ending to the show.

El Chaflan
Avenida de Pio XII 34
Madrid, Spain
+34 91 350 6193
Tasting menu with wines: 115 euros

Hamming it up in Madrid

I honestly feel like I am going to turn into a pig...literally. Walking down the streets of Madrid, one finds it difficult to escape what seems to be Spain's national food: Ham.


Try it sliced on a plate with a drizzle of olive oil or with a sampling of manchego cheese. Sample it on a French roll rubbed with tomatoes or better yet with slices of tomato.

During my short visit to Madrid, I ate ham virtually every day. Breakfast, lunch, and late afternoon snack; but, never for dinner. I needed to save room for other gastronomic treats.

2 of my favorite spots for ham sampling are Don Jamon and Museo de Jamon (literally translated as Museum of Ham). Don Jamon is a friendly tapas bar located on the Gran Via, steps away from most hotels. There is no menu at this joint, just large back-lit photos on the wall of the various tapas available for tasting. I opt for the sampling of Serrano and Ibérico ham, along with manchego cheese and a bocadillo (French roll sandwich) of ham and tomato. Washed down with a cerveza, nothing else hits the spot after a night of clubbing.

Museo de Jamon definitely lives up to its name: a Museum of Ham. Hundreds of cured hams hang from the ceiling of this neighborhood spot, which has several locations in Madrid. Patrons can belly up to the bar for a snack or order cold cuts and cheeses to go from a deli-style counter. Again, I opt for a bocadillo of Serrano ham and tomato plus a Spanish omelet (Tortilla Española) on the side. Tasty!

Inside Museo del Jamon

Don Jamon
Gran Vía, 60
Madrid, Spain

Museo del Jamon
Multiple Locations (photos from C/ Alcalá, 155)
Madrid, Spain