ChiefWino: Musings from a Sommelier

Happy Holidays!

2011-12-24T11:46:00.001-05:00

This free digital ecard made with Smilebox

Thanksgiving Wine Tips from SiriusXM's Broadminded Show

2011-11-21T10:53:00.003-05:00

Click for a listen to my Thanksgiving wine tips from SiriusXM's Broadminded show.

How to pick a wine for Thanksgiving dinner

2011-11-15T22:40:00.000-05:00

Not sure if you should be drinking red or white wine with turkey this Thanksgiving? Tune in for some tips.

Versatile Wines Tips from Let's Talk Live

2011-10-19T16:55:00.001-04:00

Tips on versatile wines to always have on hand for versatile wine and food pairing.

Chocolate and Wine Pairing

2011-02-15T23:12:00.001-05:00

Chocolate and Wine Pairing as see on TBD Channel 8 on Valentine's Day

Ring in the New Year....

2010-12-30T22:00:00.001-05:00

Ideas to enjoy over New Year's from my appearance on TBD Channel 8.

National Wine Experience Washington, DC at the Newseum

2010-11-21T02:33:00.004-05:00

The National Wine Experience kicked off its inaugural show here in Washington, DC on Saturday evening with over 1000 guests and wines from 25 states at the Newseum.

Yours truly presided over an exciting line up of 13 wines from 6 states, including Arizona Stronghold from Arizona, Sawtooth from Idaho and Brooklyn Oenology from New York.

I did manage to sneak away from my Vino50 tasting table while the Wine Diva held down the crowds so I could have a peek around at some of the more interesting wines being featured at the event. I decided to skip the California floor (who needs more Robert Mondavi in their life?) and found myself enjoying tasty treats from Nebraska, Texas and even South Dakota! Here are some highlights:

Prairie Berry Winery, South Dakota
I had never tried any wines from South Dakota and am always skeptical of "fruit" wines but these were really interesting and fun.

La Crescent, a fruity and aromatic off-dry white wine with notes of apricot, lychee and rose petal. Very reminiscent of Gewurztraminer.

Pheasant Reserve, an interesting red blend of Washington state Cabernet Sauvignon and South Dakota chokecherries. Soft and fruity with tart cherry and bright acidity.

Red Ass Rhubarb, an interesting semi-sweet wine from rhubarb with tangy rhubarb and raspberry notes. Would be fabulous with mulling spices on a cold winter's day.

Lawrence Elk, a semi-sweet wine made from black currants. Bright and juicy with loads of black currant flavors. I could totally see this paired with a blackberry tart.

Glacial Till Vineyard & Winery, Nebraska

2009 Chambourcin, a dry red wine full of terroir. Dark fruit and forest floor aromas followed by tart plum and cherry flavors with smoke and spice on the finish. Silky smooth. What a tasty wine!

Chapel Creek Winery, Oklahoma

2009 Norton, a dark and earthy red that would make Jenni McCloud of Virginia's Chrysalis Vineyards proud.

Plum Creek Winery, Colorado

Sauvignon Blanc, warm climate style with lemongrass notes.

Riesling, slightly off-dry with lime zest and apricot notes.

Grand Mesa, a big Bordeaux blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Cab Franc with mouth filling texture and load of dark fruit, spice and earth.

St. Clair and DH Lescombes, New Mexico

St. Clair Zinfandel, a classic spicy and fruit-forward style with wild berry and spice notes.

DH Lescombes Cabernet Sauvignon, dark and rich with cassis, plum, graphite and smoky spice.

Thanksgiving Farm, Maryland

2007 Meritage, Merlot based blend that could perhaps fool you into believing it hails from France. Bright with dark fruit notes mixed with pepper, spice and smoke. This wine does need time to open up and from previous experience it tastes much better after a day of breathing.

Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival

2010-02-08T12:13:00.002-05:00

The 11th annual Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival gears up this coming weekend at the Ronald Reagan Building & International Trade Center. Tickets can be purchased online. Don't miss this amazing opportunity to taste wines from around the globe. Below is a clip from Fox 5 with Holly Morris with tips on the Festival.

Regional Wine Week: A Fine White Wine From Arizona

2009-10-14T01:16:00.004-04:00

In honor of Regional Wine Week 2009, Dave McIntyre suggested a post about this fantastic white wine we tasted today from Arizona. What?! Arizona makes wine? Sure, they make wine in Arizona. And why not? High-elevation vineyards at roughly 4000-5000 feet above sea level. Warm days. Cool nights. Sandy soils with good drainage. Sounds a little like Mendoza, Argentina, which is also a high-elevation desert. And who hasn't heard of Mendoza, Argentina with regard to wine production?

Earlier today, during a class on Australian wine, I popped out the Arizona Stronghold Vineyards 'TAZI' White Blend from Cochise County in Southeastern Arizona. This is a bit of a celebrity wine as its one of the projects fostered by Maynard Keenan of the rock band TOOL.

TAZI is a blend of white varietals: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling and Malvasia Bianca. It's a stunning wine too--big and lush aromas--think mandarin orange, ripe Anjou pear, juicy white peach and honeysuckle petals all wrapped up in a very smooth, medium-bodied package with lush texture and a lingering finish. The wine sorta reminds me of the Conundrum white from California, without the sweetness.

And if you want to run out and grab a bottle and you live in the Washington, DC area, there are a few retailers of note where you can purchase the wine:

Planet Wine Shop in Del Ray, Alexandria, Virginia
Whole Foods Market Old Town, Alexandria, Virginia
Wine Underground, Baltimore, Maryland

FOX 5 with Holly Morris at Chrysalis Vineyards

2009-07-10T13:53:00.002-04:00

Clip from Fox 5 Morning News with Holly Morris of Chiefwino discussing wine blending with Curtis Vincent and Jennifer McCloud from Chrysalis Vineyards in Middleburg, Virginia

2009 Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington RAMMY Awards Clip from FOX 5 DC

2009-05-18T09:54:00.002-04:00

Mug Shots: A Toast to Spring

2009-04-14T01:34:00.001-04:00

A short clip of myself and Ali McSherry from Roll Call, the newspaper for Capitol Hill, discussing Pink Wines for the Cherry Blossom Festival.

To Cork or Not to Cork

2009-01-02T22:51:00.007-05:00

Ah, yes...time for a quick discussion on corkage fees, i.e. the fee charged by a restaurant for bringing a bottle of wine to the meal.

In these uncertain economic times, the idea of bringing your own wine to circumvent paying high restaurant prices might seem like a good plan; however, a few points of etiquette should be followed.

Corkage fees can range anywhere from $10-50 per bottle and most restaurants have a maximum bottle limit of 2-750ml bottles per table (A magnum size bottle is normally considered 2 bottles). The fee is charged to cover wine service (not gratuity), wine glass breakage, glass washing and some of the lost revenue from not selling a bottle off the restaurant's wine list. Remember that restaurants are in the business to turn a profit and beverage sales are a major component of the equation.

Note that BYOB is not always available in some states due to varying liquor laws.

Chiefwino's Corkage Tips:

1. Always call the restaurant in advance and inquire about corkage. Also, check the restaurant's website to see if the wine you would like to bring is available on the list. NEVER bring a wine that is already on the list as many restaurants will not serve it.

2. Do not bring an inexpensive bottle of wine or bottles that are very common on grocery store shelves. The idea behind corkage is to allow you to bring a special bottle, perhaps an old vintage wine you have been saving for a special occasion or something very unusual. If you do bring an old vintage, you are absolutely entitled to having the wine decanted and the use of the restaurant's finest stemware.

Note: If you are dining in a more casual establishment, the "special" rule need not necessarily apply as many casual spots have dismal wine programs with a majority of the selections not being overly food friendly (think over-oaked and fruit bomb wines). But do stay away from common brands and grocery store items so as not to appear "cheap" to the restaurant's staff. A nice non-descript Italian white or Southern French wine should do just fine.

3. Make sure to REMOVE price tags from the bottle being brought to the restaurant (see actual photo above). Nothing is worse than showing exactly what you paid for a bottle you have brought. Also, bring the wine in something other than a brown bag (think wine gift bag) for fear of being pegged as "cheap" from the get-go.

4. ALWAYS tip as if you had purchased the bottle from the restaurant as the server still had to perform wine service without a higher check total. Use your best guess as to what the wine might have cost.

5. Offer the Sommelier or Wine Steward a small sample, especially if you have brought a very special wine. This is common courtesy and will you help earn points with the service staff.

6. Lastly, if you can consume more wine after finishing your own bottle, consider purchasing a bottle from the restaurant's wine list. Some restaurants may even waive the corkage fee with the purchase of a bottle.

When in doubt, call the restaurant in advance and speak to a manager or the Sommelier to inquire on their specific corkage policy if you have questions.

Cheers!

XM RADIO CLIP: HOLIDAY WINES ON A BUDGET

2008-12-13T02:40:00.003-05:00

Join the Broads and I from XM Radio's Broadminded, Channel 155 for a discussion on holiday wines on a budget.

CLICK TO PLAY AUDIO CLIP

XM RADIO CLIP: DRINK LOCAL

2008-11-03T02:39:00.004-05:00

Join the Broads and I for a spirited discussion on Drinking Local from October 29, 2008 on XM Radio Channel 155.

PLAY XM RADIO CLIP FROM BROADMINDED

Pinot Noir Tasting

2008-11-03T02:34:00.003-05:00

In this clip, Beth Wolfe and I sample 3 Pinot Noirs: Au Bon Climat 'La Bauge Au-Dessus' from California, Staete Landt and Amisfield from New Zealand.

Ruche: The Pinot-Like Grape from Piedmont

2008-10-15T23:44:00.004-04:00

In this episode, I am joined by Beth Wolfe of Siema Wines to discuss an obscure Italian grape called Ruché.

The wine we are sampling is the

Cantine Sant'Agata 'Na Vota' Ruché di Castagnole di Monferrato

XM RADIO CLIP: FALL FOOD & WINE

2008-10-12T04:01:00.002-04:00

Join Amanda McClements of Metrocurean, myself and the Broads for a lively discussion of wine and foods for the fall. Clip from September 23, 2008 on XM Radio Channel 155.

PLAY XM RADIO CLIP FROM BROADMINDED

Local Wine Week: Virginia Wine Vlog

2008-10-07T12:34:00.002-04:00

Local Wine Week: DC's Wine Country

2008-10-06T22:20:00.006-04:00

The Loudoun County, Virginia Convention & Visitors Association has recently released a series of tourism videos aimed at promoting the area as "DC's Wine Country." Loudoun County is a mere hour-or-so drive from downtown Washington, DC complete with charming towns, breathtaking vistas and some of Virginia's best wines. Take a peek....

Chrysalis Vineyards, Middleburg, Virginia

Breaux Vineyards, Hillsboro, Virginia

Bluemont Vineyards, Bluemont, Virginia

Tarara Winery, Lucketts, Virginia

To learn more about "DC's Wine Country" - Loudoun County, Virginia, and all its culinary experiences, check out their Food + Wine guide at Loudoun Food + Wine.

Drink Local! Local Wine Week Kicks Off

2008-10-06T03:45:00.008-04:00

My contribution to Local Wine Week is the following vlog where we discuss wines from Colorado, Illinois and Arizona. The week of October 6 marks the beginning of drinklocalwine.com, a portal dedicated to connecting readers with writers who concentrate on what's going on in their local and regional backyards.

If we eat local, why not drink local?

Kudos to Dave McIntyre from the Washington Post and Jeff Siegel of the Wine Curmudgeon for putting this initiative together.

Clip One: Colorado and Illinois

Clip Two: Arizona

And for those of you interested in more information on wines from Arizona and Illinois, visit the following sites and don't miss the Wall Street Journal's recent tasting of Illinois vs. Arizona.

Wall Street Journal: Tastings

Arizona Wine Grower's Association

Arizona Vines and Wines

Illinois Grape Growers & Vintners Association

Arts on Foot: Wine Seminar Recap

2008-09-17T00:58:00.005-04:00

For those of you who braved the scorching heat to taste wines with me on Saturday at Arts on Foot, I present to you the much awaited recap on the wines featured and their respective winery's contact information. If you were not able to make it, use this guide as a resource on up-and-coming wineries and regions and take note. Most of these wines are available as part of my wine program at OYA Restautant & Lounge in the Penn Quarter.

ARTS ON FOOT WINE SEMINAR
Saturday, September 13, 2008

ABCs-Anything But California

I’m a maverick. Not like John McCain by any stretch of the imagination but in terms of fighting for small family owned wine producers and those in unknown wine regions. I would rather drink wines from “grass roots wineries” than those made by wine factories and big corporate giants that answer to shareholders.

I am also a big proponent of supporting local wineries—that cliché of “think globally, drink locally.” Locally produced/sourced wines take less fuel and packaging to get to you than those from further afield.

Wine is now produced in all 50 US States since the opening of a winery in North Dakota in 2002. However, not all states grow grapes—Alaska has grapes trucked in from other regions and Hawaii uses fruit to produce wines.

Contrary to popular belief, California was not always king of wine production in the United States. Prior to the Civil War, New York, Ohio, Missouri and Indiana—Indiana’s Ohio River Valley was often referred to as the “Rhineland of America” likening it to the great German wine region—were major players in the wine arena.

But that all changed with the Prohibition Movement and for most eastern states, the return to grape growing and wine making was slow in coming.

Aside from California, Washington and Oregon, New York, Texas and Virginia are top wine producing states.

Today’s tasting is a line-up of wines from what I consider up-and-coming wine regions—Michigan, Colorado, Arizona, Idaho and Illinois as well as the established New York and British Columbia regions.

Black Star Farms Pinot Gris 2006,
Old Mission Peninsula, Northwest Michigan
1000 cases; www.blackstarfarms.com

Black Star Farms is located on Northwest Michigan’s beautiful Leelanau Peninsula, near Traverse City and produce some of Michigan’s finest wines. Their proximity to Lake Michigan moderates the climate here, especially from harsh winter freezes.

Tasting Note: light, fresh, clean. Floral, herbal and citrus notes plus green melon and mineral. Crisp and refreshing.

Jack Rabbit Hill Sauvignon Blanc 2007,
Grand Valley, Western Colorado
239 cases; www.jackrabbithill.com

Located on Colorado’s Western Slope—West of the Rockies, Jack Rabbit Hill is not only certified organic but also biodynamic. The winery specializes in Pinot Noir, Riesling and Cabernet Franc. This Sauvignon Blanc was made from fruit purchased from a nearby vineyard and is not organic/biodynamic.

Tasting Note: ripe and tropical style. Apricot/peach, slight herbal notes, plus lemon citrus. It's made in more of a California style rather than the zingy New Zealand style. Medium bodied.

Mission Hill Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2004,
Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada
5000 cases; www.missionhillwinery.com

Mission Hill is situated in BC’s STUNNING Okanagan Valley, which features a 60-mile lake running down the center of the Valley. Often referred to as Canada’s Napa Valley, the Okanagan is at the northern end of the Sonora dessert and enjoys a dry climate with warm summers. It’s a must-do wine country vacation. Unfortunately, most of the wines from BC never make it outside of Canada, so a trip to the region is the only way to get acquainted with the excitement growing North of the border.

Mission Hill is a fairly large producer by Canadian standards but is still family-owned and operated. This particular wine is an interesting example of what Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon can do when fermented in oak casks.

Tasting Note: Vibrant floral and toasted hazelnut notes. Tropical fruit plus a streak of vanilla. Very similar to an oaked Chardonnay.

Wyncroft Chardonnay 2005, Lake Michigan Shore, Southwest Michigan
250 cases; www.wyncroftwine.com

If Michigan has a cult winery, then this is it. Jim and Rae Lee Lester make some of the BEST wines I have ever tasted from Michigan—so good, you forget they are from Michigan. These are a true testament that good wine can produced anywhere. Wyncroft is located in Southwest Michigan, very close to the Indiana border and not far from Chicago. The influence of Lake Michigan helps to moderate the climate. Wyncroft wines are highly sought after and are only sold via mailing list or at select retailers in Michigan and Illinois.

Tasting Note: Jim says this wine is like Kistler meets Meursault—and I agree. Big and lush with pineapple, honeysuckle and toasted almond. Smooth and creamy with a mineral streak. Truly a fabulous wine.

Galena Cellars ‘Eric the Red’ Marechal Foch 2006, Illinois
311 cases; www.galenacellars.com

Galena is one of Illinois’ largest producers, located in the Northwest corner near the Iowa border—close to the Mississippi river. Scott Lawlor, one of the owners, says Galena is the “Aspen” of Illinois—since the landscape features rolling hills instead of flat farm fields.

Marechal Foch is a French hybrid grape varietal developed in Alsace, France. Wines made from Foch can be light and fruity or dark and inky—depends on the region and what the winemaker has in mind. The Galena Foch is made in a lighter style, similar to Pinot Noir.

Tasting Note: Light and fruity—like Pinot Noir. Notes of cherry, violet/floral and a whiff of spice. Fairly easy drinking with a fresh finish.

Black Star Farms Pinot Noir 2006, Northwest Michigan
830 cases ; www.blackstarfarms.com

This is our second offering from Black Star Farms. Michigan is becoming noted for its Pinot Noir and it certainly has the right climate. Plus, Northern Michigan happens to be on the same latitude as Burgundy and Oregon, 2 noted Pinot producing regions.

Tasting Note: Bright cherry and raspberry fruit with layers of toasted nuts, earth and pepper. Light/medium bodied.

Dos Cabezas ‘DC RED’ Cabernet/Sangiovese 2004,
Southeastern Arizona
325 cases; www.doscabezaswinery.com

Arizona could well be the next Napa Valley. Land is abundant and inexpensive, labor is cheap and the climate is perfect for grapes—think Argentina—high elevation with desert-like conditions. Some big names have made their way to Arizona recently—Dick Erath of Oregon and Maynard James Keenan of the rock band Tool. Watch out NAPA!

Tasting Note: This wine is styled after a light Italian red—think Chianti-like. Loads of smoky raspberry and dark cherry, spice and truffle notes, smooth and silky, medium bodied.

Brooklyn Oenology Merlot 2005, North Fork, Long Island, New York
360 cases; www.brooklynoenology.com

In the wine biz, I love a great story—and what’s better than the story of a 30-something woman who leaves the corporate world to follow her dream of making wine—but not just anywhere—the vision to build a winery in the heart of Brooklyn. So goes the story of Alie Shaper, proprietor of Brooklyn Oenology. Currently her wines are made from Long Island grapes at a winery on the North Fork but will eventually be made in a winery in Brooklyn. The labels are cool too, each featuring works from Brooklyn artists and they peel-off for safekeeping. Alie makes a killer Chardonnay as well as this Merlot.

Tasting Note: Very Bordeaux-like—dark cherry and herbal, layers of fruit, cedar and vanilla spice. Soft tannins. Medium bodied. Its good enough to be served at the famed Gramercy Tavern in NYC.

Sawtooth Syrah 2004, Snake River, Idaho
1500 cases; www.sawtoothwinery.com

Idaho is not just for potatoes—the dry and arid climate in Western Idaho is similar to that of Eastern Washington, which we know produces fine wine. Sawtooth is one of Idaho’s best and primarily focuses on Rhone Valley grape varieties.

Tasting Note: Rich and brooding aromas of chocolate, cedar, dark plums, hint of earth. An explosion of black cherry and chocolate in the mouth, rich and velvety finish.

Sawtooth Elevation Red, Snake River, Idaho
139 cases; www.sawtoothwinery.com

This limited-release bottling is only available from the winery. The blend is 35% Syrah, 22% Petit Verdot, 17% Tempranillo, 17% Malbec and 9% Primitivo.

Tasting Note: Brooding dark fruit aromas with a whiff of smoke, plum, black cherry and cassis plus cedar spice and silky tannins.

Lynfred Seyval Blanc 2007, Illinois (Semi-Sweet White)
279 cases; www.lynfredwinery.com

Lynfred is a fantastic gem located outside Chicago near O’Hare airport. It doesn’t grow any grapes yet contracts with growers in Illinois and California to obtain the best fruit for their wines. I recently visited the winery and was blown away by both their California and Illinois offerings.

This is one of my favorites and is made from another hybrid grape. Think of it as Sauvignon Blanc meets Riesling. The grapes for this were grown in Southern Illinois.

Tasting Note: A rockin’ Sauv Blanc meets Riesling styled white made from a French-American hybrid grape in America’s heartland. Loads of gooseberry, lychee and exotic tropical fruit notes with a slightly sweet finish. If you like Riesling, you are gonna LOVE this one.

Please support your local family-owned wineries. Read more about various American wine regions on appellationamerica.com.

For more information on direct shipping and state laws, please visit freethegrapes.org, a national, grassroots coalition of consumers, wineries and retailers who seek to remove restrictions in states that still prohibit consumers from purchasing wines directly from wineries and retailers.

A Wine Grows in Illinois

2008-09-02T13:05:00.006-04:00

Fine wine in Illinois? Absolutely! Wines are being made in each of the 50 states these days and with all the buzz surrounding the concept of EAT LOCAL and DRINK LOCAL, its time to step up and investigate what wines are being produced in your own backyard.

If you live near Chicago, you are blessed with one of Illinois' largest wineries, complete with a luxurious bed and breakfast: Lynfred Winery. Just a short drive Northwest (minus traffic) from the Loop lies Lynfred Winery, in the town of Roselle. Lynfred has been producing award-winning wines since 1979 from both California and Illinois grown fruit.

On a recent visit, I had the pleasure of sampling a wide array of wines from Lynfred's line-up of over 50 selections.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Monterey--ripe style, mango, peach, slight herbal notes, hint of sweetness on the finish, medium bodied.

2006 Semillon Reserve, Columbia Valley--smoky, pineapple, mango, peach, luscious and full, smooth texture, medium/full bodied.

2007 Fume Blanc, Monterey--aromatic, grassy, mango, lemon-lime, touch of oak, full and round, slight zest on the finish.

2006 Viognier, Lodi--ripe, tropical, mango, peach, luscious, hint of sweetness, round and smooth.

2007 Seyval Blanc, Illinois--like Riesling meets Sauvignon Blanc--big aromas of white grapefruit, gooseberry, herbal notes, lemon citrus, semi-sweet, refreshing.

2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi--jammy, white pepper, plum, black cherry, touch of toasted vanilla spice, medium bodied.

2005 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi--spicy wild berry, raspberry, silky texture, medium bodied.

2006 Tempranillo, Columbia Valley--ripe and jammy, plum, black cherry, white pepper, vanilla spice, silky, medium bodied.

2005 Petite Sirah Reserve, Lodi--dark and brooding, plum, cassis, raisin, leather, dark chocolate, velvety texture, full bodied.

NV Sparkling Cherry Wine--totally fun--tastes like sparkling cherry pie--tart cherry flavors with a touch of cinnamon spice. A perfect pairing on a holiday table for cherry pie.

Lynfred is located roughly 30 miles Northwest of Downtown Chicago, near Schaumburg.

15 S. Roselle Road
Roselle, IL 60172

Dog Day Wines of Summer

2008-08-06T11:19:00.007-04:00

Yesterday, I discussed "Dog Day Wines of Summer" on XM Radio's Broadminded with Jill Zimorski of Cafe Atlantico & Mini Bar. The perfect wines on a hot summer day exude crisp and refreshing acidity and don't tire the palate. Look for high acid wines from grapes like Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Albariño, Pinot Gris/Grigio or blends from Spain's Basque Region. Stay away from oaky Chardonnay as the weight of the wine can tire out the palate, not to mention high alcohol wines can come across "hot".

Here is a recap of wines discussed on yesterday's program. Click the link below to hear the audio clip from the show.

XM RADIO DOG DAY WINES OF SUMMER

Xarmant Txakolina, Basque Region, Spain--fresh white blend from Spain's Basque Region from indigenous grapes. Lemon-limon and citrus notes, mineral, slight bit of spritz. Mouthwatering finish. Great with sushi/seafood.

Morgadio Albariño, Rias Baixas, Spain--aromatic with notes of banana, melon, apricot, spring flowers. Little more weighty than the Xarmant but crisp acidity and refreshing finish. Great with seafood.

Ca' Bona Pinot Grigio Rosé, Lombardy, Italy--the coolest Pinot Grigio I have ever seen. As Pinot Grigio grape skins have a slight pinky color, its possible to make a Rosé from macerating the grape skins with the grape juice to extract color. Fresh and light like a white Pinot Grigio with a slight watermelon and strawberry flavor.

Cederberg Chenin Blanc, Cederberg, South Africa--over the top aromatics. Loads of white grapefruit, lemon-lime zest and a touch of peach. Zesty finish.

Lynfred Seyval Blanc, Illinois--Perfect for those looking for a sweeter wine yet is refreshing. Smells similar to Sauvignon Blanc with ripe grapefruit, lychee/floral notes, apricot with just a little sweetness. Refreshing finish.

For those of you who just don't do white, try high acid reds like Beaujolais, Pinot Noirs (from Oregon or Europe) or even the Italian favs Dolcetto or Barbera. Chill the reds for approximately 15 minutes in the fridge for a more refreshing experience.

Tasty Treat from Baja

2008-07-23T01:49:00.003-04:00

After a visit to Oyamel last evening, I had a craving to crack open a bottle of Baja California Grenache scored from a recent visit to the Witch Creek Winery tasting room in Historic Julian, California.

The 2006 Guadalupe Valley Grenache opens with alluring red fruit aromas--strawberry, raspberry with a whiff of toasted oak and spice. Fairly light in body, the wine delivers loads of juicy fruit flavors with integrated oak. Finishes off with soft and gentle tannins. Its a fabulous summer-sipper, especially served slightly chilled. A definite far cry from the often green and stemmy examples of Grenache coming out of the Borja region of spain.

The winery only sells direct at its homebase in Carlsbad or the tasting room in Julian.

THE XM SAGA CONTINUES....

2008-07-10T23:09:00.008-04:00

If you have yet to listen to any of my audio clips from the XM Radio Show, Broadminded, check out the podcast box down the left hand side for previous clips.

Today, I had the pleasure of introducing Amanda McClements of Metrocurean.com to the "Broads" and their audience. We discussed food and wine trends and had a rockin' good time to boot.

Here are the clips, which will open in a separate window. Simply hit play, sit back and enjoy.

CLIP ONE

CLIP TWO

CHEERS

Wine and Cacti

2008-03-20T00:56:00.010-04:00

Wine Country is definitely not the first thing that comes to mind when one thinks of Arizona. But a growing number of vineyards and wineries are popping up and churning out vintages that rival those from some of the best known regions. And why not? Arizona boasts a climate of near desert-like conditions and high elevation sites (3000-4000 feet above sea level). Sounds not unlike Mendoza, Argentina, which has risen to fame for its bottlings of Malbec.

Wine grape growing in Arizona dates back some 400 years to the days of the Missions. Today, over 20 wineries dot the Arizona landscape and are located in three main areas: Sedona (Verde Valley), Sonita/Elgin (southeast of Tucson) and Willcox (east of Tucson).

A recent visit to Arizona wine country led me up to Sedona where I visited three small wineries: Page Springs, Oak Creek and Echo Canyon.

Specializing in Rhone style wines, Page Springs Cellars is the brainchild of Eric Glomski, who worked in California under noted winemaker David Bruce. Most of Page Springs' current offerings are produced from California fruit while they await their estate vineyard to reach maturity. Since the estate vines were planted in 2003, the 2008 harvest should result in sizable amount of fruit.

The standout wine in my tasting was the 2005 El Serrano--a blend of Mourvedre, Syrah and Cabernet Pfeffer, produced from Central Coast fruit. Rich and brooding dark fruit aromas, jammy plum, cassis and pepper notes with a velvety texture. Medium/full bodied.

An interesting note: Page Springs also produces wine in conjunction with Maynard James Keenan, the lead singer of the band TOOL. The label is called Caduceus and the story can be found at caduceus.org.

Oak Creek Vineyards
Just up the road from Page Springs, lies Oak Creek, which is also owned by a veteran of the industry, Deb Wahl. Deb grows Syrah, Merlot, Zinfandel and Chardonnay.

My fav wine was by far Deb's Petit Verdot, which offers rich and brooding aromas of coffee and cedar followed by gamey/leather and cassis notes. Full bodied with a lingering black plum finish.

The final stop on my journey up Page Springs road was Echo Canyon Vineyard & Winery. Accessing Echo Canyon is not for the faint of heart--down an unmarked, one lane dirt two-track that traverses the side of a steep canyon. An advance appointment is necessary as Echo Canyon does not have a public tasting room. But the trek is worth the effort, as Jon Marcus makes some of Arizona's best bottlings.
Utilizing organic and biodynamic viticulture, Marcus produces a range of reds that will knock your socks off.

The 2003 Triad--a blend of Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon--bursts with ripe red fruit flavors with silky smooth finish. Loads of black cherry, strawberry, a hint of blueberry and vanilla spice.

Marcus' 2003 Cabernet Franc is also a winner with black cherry, black currant, pepper spice and a velvety texture.

In my next Arizona wine country installment in June, I will explore Arizona's southern regions, including Dos Cabezas Wineworks and Callaghan Vineyards. Stay tuned!

For more information on Arizona Wine and to plan your wine country escape, visit www.arizonawine.org.

Fox 5 with Holly Morris

2008-03-01T03:12:00.002-05:00

Here is a TV clip of myself and Holly Morris from Fox 5 TV discussing food and wine pairings in preparation for the Washington DC International Wine & Food Festival. Check it out!

More Tasting

2008-01-30T09:00:00.000-05:00

Tasted the following interested wines worth noting:

Wolf Mountain 'Instinct' 2004, Lumpkin County, Georgia--blend of Syrah, Cab Sauvignon, Touriga Nacional and Mourvedre. Sweet smoke aromas, green pepper, plum, cassis with a whiff of vanilla. Smooth and silky with soft tannins. Medium/full bodied. The fav of the bunch in the line up.

Monsoon Valley Red 2003, Chao Phraya Delta, Thailand--an interesting blend of Pokdum, Black Muscat and Syrah. Very perfumed nose of sweet red fruits, raspberry and plum on the palate plus a touch of green pepper. A touch sweet. Light body. Definitely a good match for thai food or anything with a little spice kick.

Las Piedras 'Arroyo Vineyards' Syrah 2005, San Diego, County, California--picked this one up during a visit to Temecula. Beautiful ripe nose--boysenberry, black raspberry, currant and star anise notes. Smooth with short finish. Slightly bitter on the end. Perhaps more time in the bottle needed?

'How-To' Wine Clips

2008-01-26T01:46:00.001-05:00

A few months back, I was contacted by a new 'how-to' video website to film some wine clips. They are now posted for the world to see. You can view them at www.monkeysee.com/chiefwino.

The "Coastal" Wine Hunt

2008-01-22T23:10:00.000-05:00

Much to catch up on these days as I begin my quest for "coastal" inspired wines for a new restaurant project opening later this year in DC's Penn Quarter.

As of late, I have been sampling a myriad of wines from "Coastal" regions unknown to most wine consumers--like Michigan's Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas in Northern Michigan, which lie at roughly the same latitude as Burgundy in France. Both wine regions are heavily influenced by Lake Michigan (get it--Coastal?), which helps to moderate the climate for the production of vinifera grapes.

I've uncovered a handful of amazing methode champenoise sparklers and some pretty darn good Pinot Noir--and who knows, if our global temperatures continue to rise, Michigan might just be the next great spot for Pinot Noir and more. Could it be the next Oregon?

If you can get your hands on any of these wines, whether via a retail shop in Michigan or via the wineries direct, you are in for a treat.

L. Mawby 'Cremant' Brut NV, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan--L. Mawby only produces sparkling wines, both methode champenoise and charmat method. This is one of their best produced from the Vignoles grape. Soft with nut and yeast aromas followed by honey and truffles. Crisp with fine bubbles.

L. Mawby 'Conservancy' Extra Brut NV, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan--just a touch fruitier than than Cremant with 1.5% sweetness. Fresh with floral and candied fruit aromas, honeysuckle and lemon-citrus zing on the finish. A hint of sweetness. For each bottle sold, the winery contributes $2 to the Farmland Preservation Fund of the Leelanau Conservancy, a fund dedicated to the preservation of farmland in perpetuity. Nice.

L. Mawby 'Consort' Sec NV, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan--Blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. Fresh and ripe with luscious peach and mango notes plus a hint of toast on the finish. Just a touch sweet with 2% sweetness.

Shady Lane Cellars Pinot Noir 2005, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan--lighter style of Pinot with floral and cherry notes, tad bit earthy with a hint of spice. Smooth. Light body.

Black Star Farms 'Arcturos' Pinot Noir 2005, Leelanau Peninsula/Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan--a little subdued on the nose with cherry, truffles and a hint of spice. Not overly expressive. Smooth. Light body.

Isidor's Choice Pinot Noir 2003, Leelanau Peninsula, Michigan--bit more meaty that the others with black cherry aromas followed by earth and truffles plus a whiff of spice. Smooth with a fresh finish. Light/medium body.

Pelee Island Winery Pinot Noir 2005, Pelee Island, Ontario, Canada--from another "coastal" region, this small island is situated in Lake Erie between Ohio and Ontario, Canada. This was by far the favorite of the lot of Pinots--intense earth and black cherry aromas followed by truffles, tobacco and a touch of spice. Smooth and crisp finish. Light bodied.

Brys Estate'Signature' Red 2005, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan--blend of 50% Cab Fran, 45% Merlot and 5% Pinot Noir. Smooth and silky with layers of vanilla, wild red berries and pepper spice. Soft tannins with a touch of chocolate on the finish. Medium bodied.

Last but not least, I tasted an amazing Zinfandel from Australia--yes, AUSTRALIA.

Groom 'Bush Block' Zinfandel, Barossa Valley, Australia--This one definitely rivals the best in California Zin--loads of juicy red fruit aromas with the standard candied red fruit flavors and spice plus a whiff of vanilla. Smooth and silky with soft tannins. Medium bodied.

Love from Arizona

2007-12-24T00:29:00.000-05:00

WOW! I just uncorked a bottle of wine from Echo Canyon Winery near Sedona, Arizona. This stunning red is a blend of Syrah, Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon.

2003 Echo Canyon 'Triad'--bursting with ripe red fruit flavors with silky smooth finish. Loads of black cherry, strawberry with a hint of blueberry with a touch of vanilla spice. Smooth and silky tannins. A stunning example of what the Southwest can produce.

Available direct from the winery for $34.99 a bottle.

A Post from the Road: Beyond Napa

2007-09-07T10:13:00.000-04:00

Mention the Temecula Valley wine region and eyebrows raise. "Huh? Where is Temecula? Never heard of it." Its not surprising as many of these wines never find their way to the East Coast. Temecula lies roughly 90 miles Southeast of Los Angeles in Southern California. The region has a long histroy of winemaking, dating back over 200 years when winemaking made its debut in California at Mission San Juan Capistrano, a mere 18 miles west of Temecula.

Temecula enjoys a unique micro-climate for viticulture with well-drained granite based soils and the moderating effects of the Pacific Ocean and surrounding mountains. As the inland valleys heat up during the day, cooler air is drawn into the valley from the Pacific moderating the daytime temperatures and helping to create a pattern of warm, sunny days and cool nights--ideal conditions for the best wine grapes.

I was pleasantly surprised by the wines from Temecula, especially the reds. I discovered countless examples of elegant, balanced Syrahs and Cabernet blends that weren't overblown and extracted like some of the wines produced in Northern California.

Below are tasting highlights from several of Temecula's best:

South Coast Winery

2006 Elevation Sauvignon Blanc, South Coast--fresh and crisp with notes of kiwi, lemon citrus and herbal aromas. Lingering lemon citrus finish.

2006 Unoaked Chardonnay, Temecula Valley--fresh and fruity with notes of pear, banana and apricot, smooth mouthfeel, medium bodied.

2003 Elevation Syrah, South Coast--load of wild berry aromas, touch of smoke and toasted oak, subtle tannins, lighter bodied, easy drinking.

2005 Rolling HIlls Estate Vineyard Syrah, Temecula Valley--ripe plum and wild berry aromas plus a whiff of lavender, slight earth notes, smooth tannins, medium bodied.

2004 Wild Horse Peak Mountain Vineyards Syrah, Temecula Valley--brooding aromas of earth, fig and plum followed by wild berry flavors, a hint of spice, silky smooth tannins, medium bodied.

La Cereza

2003 Shiraz, Temecula Valley--loads of sweet raspberry and strawberry notes with a touch of spice, smooth and easy drinking, light/medium bodied.

NV Vaquero del Vino, Temecula Valley--blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot and Grenache bursting with sweet blackberry and brambleberry notes, touch of spice, soft and round tannins, medium bodied.

Bella Vista Winery

2005 Petite Sirah Rose--a beautiful summer quencher with notes of raspberry, strawberry and watermelon, slight bit of spice, off-dry finish.

2002 Sonata--blend of Petite Sirah, Zinfandel, Syrah, Merlot, Cab Franc and Cab Sauv that eminates aromas of leather, earth, tobacco and spice, dried red fruit flavors with smooth tannins, medium bodied.

Falkner Winery

2003 Amante, South Coast--blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc with bright, juicy cherry and raspberry notes followed by black licorice and spice, smooth tannins, lingering cherry finish, medium bodied.

2002 Merlot, Temecula Valley--black cherry and dried herb notes with a hint of coffee, soft tannins, medium bodied.

2002 Syrah, Temecula Valley--bright and spicy with plum, cigar box and a hint of chocolate, round tannins, mediu bodied.

2003 Syrah, Temecula Valley--plum and blackberry notes plus hints of smoke and dried herbs, rich and silky texture, round tannins, medium bodied.

2006 Las Piedras Sangiovese, South Coast--the winemaker's own private label that bursts with sour cherry and spice notes, hint of earth, firm tannins, medium bodied.

Mount Palomar Winery

2006 Castelletto Cortese, Temecula Valley--bright and fruity with notes of mango, passion fruit and green apples, a touch of minerality, medium bodied.

2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Temecula Valley--ripe tropical fruit notes followed by pear and apricot flavors, citrus notes on the finish, medium bodied.

2003 Meritage, Temecula Valley--blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc with ripe currant and plum notes followed by cedar and chocolate plus a hint of vanilla, firm tannins, medium/full bodied.

Stuart Cellars

2005 Sauvignon Blanc, California--herbal and mineral notes followed by passion fruit and grapefruit flavors, lingering citrus finish, medium bodied.

2005 Malbec, Temecula Valley--loads of wild berry, black cherry and spice notes with strawberry flavors, soft tannins, medium bodied.

2003 Vintner's Special Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Temecula Valley--rich and brooding with aromas of pencil shavings, mineral notes plus plum and cedar box on the palate, firm tannins, medium/full bodied.

2004 Estate Bottled Reserve Cabernet Franc, Temecula Valley--elegant notes of tobacco, black cherry and licorice with white pepper on the finish, firm tannins, medium/full bodied.

2002 Tatria, Temecula Valley--blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc with sweet black cherry notes plus clove, tobacco and a hint of eath, soft tannins, medium bodied.

2005 Tatria, Temecula Valley--blend of Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc with juicy black berry and plum notes, toasted oak and spice, velvety tannins, medium/full bodied.

For more information on the Temecula Valley and its wines, visit the Temecula Valley Winegrowers Association.

A Post from the Road: Santa Cruz Mountains

2007-09-01T22:00:00.000-04:00

Just south of San Francisco and west of San Jose lies the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA, home to known spots like Ridge, Kathryn Kennedy, Bonny Doon and David Bruce, plus a number of small boutique wineries. The unique mountain soils and proximity to both the San Francisco Bay and Pacific Ocean combine to create a superb microclimate for both Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir grapes.

Earlier today, I visited three different wineries that make a visit to the Santa Cruz Mountains worthwhile:

Cinnabar Vineyards & Winery

While the name might bring to mind the infamous cinnamon buns of Cinnabon found in airports, Cinnabar is actually a derivitive of the metal Mercury which during the fourteenth century was believed to transform ordinary metals into gold and silver. The name seems fitting as Cinnabar turns out wines worthy of gold and silver medals.

2005 Mercury Rising Blanc, North Coast—blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Viognier. Notes of orange peel, citrus fruits with a hint of grass, medium/full bodied.

2006 Marsanne, Paso Robles—very head aromas of honey and almond, touch of orange blossom, smooth, creamy palate, medium/full bodied. Only 50 cases produced.

2005 Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains—aromas of baked apple and toasted vanilla, buttery mouthfeel with slight mineral notes, hint of lemon citrus zing on the finish, medium bodied.

2005 Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mountains—notes of sweet cranberry, cherry and cola followed by vanilla spice and toasted oak, silky and elegant, medium bodied.

2005 Merlot, Paso Robles—smoky plum and black currant notes, hint of cocoa and tobacco, smooth and rich texture, medium/full bodied.

2005 Mercury Rising Red, Central Coast—blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot. Notes of blueberry and black currant with an undertone of cocoa and black coffee. Smooth and rich, medium/full bodied.

2006 Late Harvest Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains—made in an icewine style with aromas of apricot, mango and banana, rich and viscous mouthfeel, orange blossoms on the finish, medium/full bodied.

Cinnabar's tasting room is located in the quaint village of Saratoga, a stone's throw off Route 17.

14612 Big Basin Way
Saratoga, CA 95070

David Bruce Winery

Situated above the fog line at roughly 2,000 feet above sea level lies the David Bruce Winery. Known for producing internationally acclaimed Pinot Noir, David Bruce also dabbles with Petite Sirah, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Grapes are sourced from both the 25-acre mountain estate vineyards and from over 20 of the best growers in Northern and Central California.

2006 Pinot Noir Saignée, Sonoma Coast—a beautiful rosé with ripe strawberry and raspberry aromas, melon and apricot notes with a whiff of spice, refreshing finish.

2005 Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast—bursting with cherry and cranberry aromas followed by black cherry and cinnamon spice, silky tannins, long finish, medium bodied.

2002 Pinot Noir, Bien Nacido Vineyard, Santa Maria Valley—enticing aromas of black cherry, rose petal and clove spice followed by notes of cinnamon and leather, smooth and silky tannins, medium bodied.

2004 Sangiovese, Paso Robles—ripe cherry and floral aromas followed by cranberry and spice, supple tannins, lingering finish, medium bodied.

2005 Petite Sirah, Central Coast—big and juicy with ripe plum and blueberry aromas plus cassis and clove notes, dense and fleshy texture, firm tannins, full bodied.

David Bruce Winery is located off Route 17 near Los Gatos off Bear Creek Road. The journey up the mountain is a bit precarious, so proceed with caution and make sure to SPIT, not SWALLOW when tasting.

21439 Bear Creek Road
Los Gatos, CA 95033

Byington Vineyard & Winery
Just down from David Bruce lies the Byington Estate with breathtaking views and an impressive portfolio of small production wines.

2006 Liage, Central Coast—blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier with grassy and floral aromas followed by luscious honeysuckle and citrus fruit flavors, lingering citrus fruit finish, medium bodied.

2005 Chardonnay, Redwood Hill Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains—baked apple and pear notes followed by pineapple and lemon citrus, hint of toasted oak, creamy mouthfeel, medium bodied.

2004 Pinot Noir, Van der Kamp Vineyard, Sonoma Mountain—heady floral/violet aromas followed by wet leaves and cherries, touch of spice, soft tannins, medium bodied. Only 170 cases produced.

2005 Pinot Noir, Byington Estate Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains—a real show-stopper with Burgundian aromas of wet leaves, mushrooms plus a floral component, red cherry fruit and a touch of spice, soft tannins, medium bodied. Only 347 cases produced.

2004 Alliage, Paso Robles—blend of Cab Sauv and Merlot with plum and cassis notes, slight hint of pencil shavings, smooth and silky, firm tannins, medium bodied.

2004 Merlot, Messina Vineyard, Paso Robles—jammy plum aromas followed by hints of cocoa and tobacco, fleshy and complex, velvety tannins, full bodied.

2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Bates Ranch Vineyard, Santa Cruz Mountains—cassis and black pepper aromas followed by sweet plum and toasted oak, rich and velvety, firm tannins, full bodied.

1993 Cabernet Sauvignon, Smith-Reichel Vineyard, Alexander Valley—a very special library release that blew my socks off—intense notes of leather and tobacco followed by violets, dried cranberries and cassis, smooth and silky, soft tannins, medium bodied.

Byington Vineyard & Winery is located off Route 17 in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Again, remember to SPIT or have a designated driver.

21850 Bear Creek Road
Los Gatos, CA 95033

In An Italian State of Mind

2007-08-26T10:47:00.001-04:00

Lately, I've been on the Italian bandwagon--tasting through oodles of Italian and Italian-inspired wines for a spot in Arlington, Virginia. Italy has over 800 different grape varietals--enough to make your head spin. Only 350 of those varietals are "authorized" by the Italian government to be used in fine wine production. Wine from Italy goes far beyond everyday Chiantis and Pinot Grigios with interesting wines like Nero d'Avola, Refosco, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, and Vermentino. Below is a laundry list of interesting gems worth seeking out that were tasted during my foray into the world of Vino Italiano.

NV Bellenda di Valmonte 'Col di Luna' Sparkling Rosé, Veneto, Italy--blend of Raboso and Pinot Noir, fresh and juicy, notes of raspberry, strawberry, slight bit of residual sugar, refreshing.

2006 Bigi Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone, Umbria, Italy--blend of Procanico, Malvasia Bianca, and Rosciola, fresh and crisp, green apple and citrus fruit notes, touch of lemon, great for a hot summer day.

2005 Caldora Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Abruzzo, Italy--made from the Trebbiano grape with floral and honey notes, ripe tropical fruit (mango, peach, passion fruit), rich and luscious.

2006 Alois Lagader Pinot Bianco, Alto Adige, Italy--herbal and citrus notes, clean, crisp, refreshing, good alternative to Pinot Grigio.

2005 Elena Walch Sauvignon Blanc, Alto Adige, Italy--mineral and herbal notes, almost chalky, hint of cat pee and citrus flavors, crisp with lingering finish.

2006 La Cappuccina Soave, Veneto, Italy--made from the Garganega grape, bright and crisp, lemon/lime flavors with a touch of ruby red grapefruit, crisp and mouthwatering finish.

2005 Talia Bianco, Sicily, Italy--blend of native Sicilian grapes (Catarratto and Grecanico), notes of honey and almond, ripe peach and mongo fruit, luscious and rich, good alternative to Chardonnay.

2006 Uvaggio Vermentino, Lodi, California--a real find--over the top herbal aromas, stonefruit, melon and kiwi flavors, a whiff of spearmint, crisp and refreshing. You will BEG for another glass.

2006 Cantina Nalles Gewurztraminer, Alto Adige, Italy--the grape of German and Alsatian fame finds itself at home in Nothern Italy, perfumed aromas of rose petal and lychee, touch of peach fruit and spice, medium to full bodied.

2005 Villa Arianna Frascati Superiore, Lazio, Italy--one of the better Frascatis I've found--too many are uninteresting and acidic, mango, guava and pear notes, medium acidity, smooth and voluptuous, medium bodied.

2006 Terrazzo 'Esino Bianco', Marches, Italy--blend of Verdicchio and Trebbiano, bright and crisp, pear, mango and peach notes, crisp and refreshing, lingering finish, light/medium bodied.

2006 Tenuta Maggiore 'Sentito' Cortese, Lombardy, Italy--85% Cortese and 15% Riesling, fresh with aromas of mango, apricot and honeysuckle, slight almond notes, medium bodied.

2005 Poggiobello Tocai Friulano, Friuli, Italy--very floral with melon and kiwi fruit, slight zing on the finish, medium bodied.

2005 Lupi Vermentino, Riviera di Ponente, Liguria, Italy--intense petrol aromas, citrus fruit and mineral notes, clean finish, medium bodied.

2004 Anime Refosco, Friuli, Italy--made from the refosco grape, bright and juicy cherry and plum notes, kinda grapey, light and easy drinking, would be tasty slightly chilled.

2004 Avignonesi Rosso di Toscana, Tuscany, Italy--red blend of Prugnolo Gentile, Cab Sauv and Merlot, aromas of plum, black currant and spice, undertones of wet earth, smooth and velvety tannins, medium bodied.

2004 Silvio Grasso Barbera d'Alba, Piedmont, Italy--plum and leather notes, with a touch of leather, smooth and velvety tannins, medium bodied.

NV Mondo del Vino 'Tre Uve', Emilia-Romagna, Italy--blend of Sangiovese, Primitivo, Montepulciano, notes of black currant, pencil shavings and cedar, smooth and rich, slight chocolate undertones, medium bodied.

2003 Vecchia Torre Salice Salice Salentino, Puglia, Italy--made from the Negroamaro grape, ripe cherry notes with cedar and chocolate, smooth, fresh finish, medium bodied.

2003 Vincenzo da Filicaja 'Villa da Filicaja' Chianti Superiore, Tuscany, Italy--primarily Sangiovese, big and ripe, with sour cherry, gun powder, slight chocolate notes, smooth and silky tannins, medium bodied.

2002 Luigi Ferrando Carema, Piedmont, Italy--made from the Nebbiolo grape this is a much more approachable style than most Barolo or Barbaresco wines, black cherry, spice and leather notes, smooth and fresh, medium tannins, medium bodied.

2005 Podere Il Caio, Umbria, Italy--blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Cabernet Sauv, brooding aromas of spice, cigar box, and leather, plum and blackberry fruit, velvety tannins, medium/full bodied.

2004 Feudi di San Marzano 'Sud' Malvasia Nera, Puglia, Italy--a real showstopper, juicy plum and bluberry notes, understones of leather and earth, rich and robust, silky tannins, medium bodied.

2001 Malgra Monferrato, Piedmont, Italy--blend of Barbera and Cabernet Sauv, bright black cherry and plum fruit, hint of spice, undertones of leather and earth, silky tannins, medium bodied.

2002 Pettrone Sangiovese, Mendocino, California--small production, bright and juicy black cherry, spicy vanilla notes, smooth and silky tannins, medium bodied.

2006 Spiavola Rosso di Sicilia, Sicily, Italy--blend of Nero d'Avola and Cabernet Sauv, ripe plum and blackberry notes, velvety tannins, smooth finish, medium/full bodied.

2006 Sfida Puglia Rosso, Puglia, Italy--blend of Primitivo and Negroamaro, ripe and jammy wild berry notes, touch of spice, silky tannins, medium bodied.

2004 Casata Monfort Pinot Nero, Trentino, Italy--its been hard to find a decent Pinot Noir from Italy, but this one shows well--aromas of dried cherries, sweet tobacco and wet leaf notes, smooth and silky, light/medium bodied.

2000 Fratelli Gozzi 'Rosso Saline', Lombardy, Italy--supple and elegant blend of Cabernet Sauv and Merlot, dried red fruit notes, cedar and cigar box, touch of leather, very complex with silky tannins, medium/full bodied.

2004 Casata Monfort Teroldego Rotaliano, Trentino, Italy--made from the Teroldego grape, foxy and wild with leather and blueberry notes, savory and smooth, medium bodied.

Sipavola image from http://deliciousgrapes.blogspot.com/

Bubbles on the Potomac

2007-07-15T15:51:00.000-04:00

TICKETS ALMOST SOLD OUT!!!!!

Rasie your glass to a night of summer fun when the Washington Area Concierge Association sets sail with its charity dinner cruise, Bubbles on the Potomac III: Vintage, Baby! Vintage!, on Sunday, August 5, 2007. Enjoy an elegant evening aboard the Odyssey III on the Potomac River featuring sparkling wine tasting, dinner buffet, dancing, live entertainment, and silent auction. All proceeds to benefit the following charities: Food & Friends, The Les Clefs d'Or Foundation and the John B. Campbell Hospitality Scholarship Fund. For more info on the event and ticket sales, visit bubblesonthepotomac.eventbrite.com.

Photos by Freddie Lieberman

Spain's Isle of Wine

2007-07-08T12:15:00.000-04:00

The Island of Mallorca, 120 miles off Spain's Mediterranean coast conjures up images of white sand beaches filled with vacationers from mainland Europe, yet a mere 20 miles off the beach lies a land filled with rolling hills (mountains to the North) dotted with windmills and countless small bodegas.

Winemaking in Mallorca dates back to Roman times and since then has seen its ups and downs, most notably during the early 20th-century when Phylloxera (the vine root eating louse) devastated most of the vineyards, which down are down from 30,000 acres at the turn-of-the-century to around 2,500 acres today.

For many, wine from Mallorca is merely a curiosity and very few bottles ever reach the U.S. as most are consumed locally by the hoards of tourists that visit the Island each year. Yet the wine gems of Mallorca are worth seeking out, especially reds made from the native local varieties Manto Negro and Callet and whites from Premsal Blanco.

If you go, here are some spots not to miss:

Perlas Majorica--Mallorca's famous faux pearls are manufactured here in the small town of Manacor. Guests can view the process and purchase items at factory direct pricing.

Restaurant Ca'n March--a few blocks from Perlas Majorica, this quaint restaurant specializes in traditional and modern Mallorca cuisine and makes a perfect stop between wine tastings.

Oliver Moragues and Finca de Binicomprat--a rustic bed & breakfast and winery located in the village of Algaida, a mere 20 minutes from Palma, which specializes in red wines from Callet, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

Vins Toni Gelabert--a small family-owned winery outside the town of Manacor, which produces a range of both red and white wines. Appointment necessary.

Anima Negra--one of the few wineries that exports to the U.S. which produces the following stellar wines:

Quibia 2006--white blend of Premsal Blanc and Muscat. Over the top aromatics with peach, pineapple and citrus notes with an undertone of fresh herbs, full-bodied with a creamy palate

AN/2 2005--red blend of Callet, Manto Negro with a dash of Syrah. Juicy black cherry and plum fruit along with cedar and cigar box notes. Smooth and light with soft ripe tannins.

AN 2004--red blend of Callet and Manto Negro. Intense savory aromas of leather and spice plus dried cranberry, plum and cassis notes, smooth with ripe tannins, persistent finish.

Es Moli Den Bou Restaurant--For Mallorca's best gastronomic experience, a visit to this Michelin starred spot is a must. Set in the base of an old windmill in the village of Sant Llorenç des Cardassar, Es Moli Den Bou features creative Mallorcan cuisine from Chef Tomeu Caldentey. Splurge and go for the Gran Tasting menu, which features a dizzying seven courses plus a number of 'surprise' items from the chef. Ask the Sommelier to pair your meal with local Mallorcan wines.

My recent visit included the following Gran Tasting Menu:

Prawns with "Venere" rice, mushrooms and Mahon cheese
Scallops with Foie
Baclao with mushrooms, parsley and garlic oil
Loin of deer with grapes and red wine sauce
Cheeseboard
Pine nuts with caramel
Chocolate with Coffee

The cheeseboard was met with a surprise twist; instead of the traditional spread of artisan cheeses, a luscious bowl of goat cheese ice cream appeared. Simply stunning!

And while in Palma, a visit to the Puro Hotel is a must. The uber-chic hotel combines style, funky-vibes, signature cocktails and a menu of Asian-Mediterranean inspired nibbles. Puro makes a great stop after a day of sightseeing and shopping around the Old City. Snatch up one of the hotel's signature music discs as a souvenir of your visit.

For more information on Mallorcan Wine Routes, visit the Agro Routes page on the Ministry of Agriculture's website.

Jim Lester's Big Trip to Washington

2007-06-21T00:09:00.000-04:00

I recently had the pleasure of hosting Jim and Rae Lee Lester along with a group of DC area
oenophiles for dinner and wine tasting at OYA Restaurant.

And whom might Jim Lester be, you ask? He's the brainchild behind Wyncroft Winery, a boutique operation located in Southwestern Michigan.

MICHIGAN MAKES WINE? Hell yes they make wine up there and some pretty amazing bottlings I might add...stuff that makes your head spin and wonder whether you have a fine California Chard or an elegant Burgundian Pinot Noir in your glass.

The evening proved to be one of discovery for most...discovering that yes, indeed, Michigan can produce some stunning wines and that for myself, I totally dig a killer red Burgundy with some decent bottle age. The group not only tasted through Wyncroft's Riesling, Gewurz, Chard, Pinot Noir and Bordeaux style blend, but also an array of wines brought in by various members of the party...Chablis, Alsatian Riesling, White Burgundy, Red Burgundy, and a big Napa Cab.

If you can get your hands on Jim Lester's wines, do it. You will not be disappointed. They are available in select locations around Michigan and Chicago and also via mailing list. Soon both the Chardonnay and Riesling will be on the wine list at OYA so I can claim yet another state added to OYA's eclectic list and in hopes of luring our friends from Michigan on Capitol Hill to pay a visit to OYA and enjoy a bottle of wine from the home front.

2004 Wyncroft 'Madron Lake' Riesling, Lake Michigan Shore--done in the dry Alsatian style with notes of peach, apricot, mandarin orange peel and lime zest. Fat and silky with an amazing wet stone minerality inter-played with the fruit. Big, intense yet elegant to boot.

2003 Wyncroft 'Madron Lake' Gewurztraminer, Lake Michigan Shore--done in the dry Alsatian style with rose petals, lychee and grapefruit jumping from the glass. Rich and smooth palate followed by an amazing savory/earthy notes that I've never encountered in a Gewurz. Long and dry finish.

2003 Wyncroft 'Avonlea' Chardonnay, Lake Michigan Shore--smells like a Meursault with intense notes of pear, apple, spice along with a hint of citrus and smoke. Creamy and elegant palate with mineral, vanilla and caramelized notes on the finish. A showstopper for sure and worth every penny. I might venture it has better structure and elegance than the Kistler Sonoma Coast Chard.

2004 Wyncroft 'Avonlea' Pinot Noir, Lake Michigan Shore--Burgundian in style with sweet dried cherry, red currant spice, and violet aromas followed by leather and wet earth on the palate. Smooth and velvety on the finish.

2003 Wyncroft 'Avonlea' Shou, Lake Michigan Shore--blend of 79% Cab Sauv, 17% Cab Franc, 4% Merlot--intense aromas of black currant, plum, dark chocolate and black pepper followed by black cherry and brown spice. Silky tannins. Medium bodied.

Summer Cool 101

2007-06-18T22:06:00.000-04:00

Normally I wouldn't post an entire press release, but this one caught my eye today from the Press Office for Wines of Provence...and its very timely, given the heat wave here in Washington:

TOP 10 REASONS TO DRINK PROVENCE ROSÉ…NOW
Summer Cool 101

Time to shed the heavy sweaters and the itchy underwear for some more appropriate accessories…like a fresh glass of Rosé from Provence. The summer heat can melt one’s brain, so as a public service notice we suggest combating the issue with a chilled Rosé from Côtes de Provence, Côteaux d’Aix en Provence or Côteaux Varois en Provence. Here are 10 reasons to drink Provencal Rosé this summer.

10. THEY ARE FRESH, BUT IN A GOOD WAY

9. EVERYTHING IS PRETTIER IN PINK!

8. ROSÉS FROM PROVENCE ARE THE ORIGINAL, WHY DRINK ANYTHING ELSE

7. PEOPLE WHO DRINK PINK WINES EXUDE CONFIDENCE…EVEN IF THEY DRINK IT WITH THEIR PINKY FINGER IN THE AIR

6. ONE SIP AND YOU’LL BE TRANSPORTED TO A YACHT IN THE FRENCH RIVIERA SURROUNDED BY SUPERMODELS…OK, MAYBE NOT, BUT YOU’LL WISH YOU WERE

5. THE BOTTLE IS VERY SLIMMING

4. COMES IN HUNDREDS OF SHADES OF PINK TO MATCH YOUR NEW SUMMER WARDROBE

3. PINK IS THE NEW BLACK AND JUST AS VERSATILE

2. PROVENCE + ROSÉ + BRIOCHE FRENCH TOAST WITH STRAWBERRIES = PURE BLISS

1. Roh-ZAY! IT JUST SOUNDS BETTER WITH A FRENCH ACCENT

Go get a bottle of Provencal Rosé to enjoy during this heat wave...you can thank me later!

Back from Spain!

2007-06-12T22:22:00.000-04:00

Just back from a fantastic jaunt to Barcelona and the Penedès wine region and visits to vineyards on the Island of Mallorca--where I also dined at the Michelin one star Es Molí den Bou. Tasting reports and tips on how to do Barcelona in the coming days.

Hook, Line and Sinker

2007-04-15T23:16:00.000-04:00

The hunt begins for a new seafood oriented wine list I am writing to be launched later this year and what better excuse to sample a few seafood whites than during the mock service dinner at Hook, a new seafood spot in Georgetown with Chef Barton Seaver at the helm.

I opted to bring a few of my own wine choices for the evening not because Hook's list is lacking imagination, but I had been dying to try a few items I had tucked away in the wine cellar. The wine list at Hook has plenty of excitement; look for a very eclectic collection of wines ranging from the Oremus Tokaji Dry Furmint 'Mandolás' from Hungary to the Xarmant Txakolina from Spain (which is being offered by the glass). A good mix of known grape varietals and the unknown. I wouldn't expect anything less from Chef Seaver, who chooses the wines.

On the docket for the evening were the Bainbridge Island Vineyards Müller-Thurgau from Pugent Sound, Washington; the Huber Sauvignon Blanc from Traisental, Austria; and the Frogtown Cellars Rousanne from Lumpkin County, Georgia (that's the state, not the country folks).

And now the tasting notes:

2002 Bainbridge Island Vineyards Müller-Thurgau, Puget Sound, Washington--an interesting dry version of the grape with notes of lime peel, white flowers, hint of orange blossom, crisp and dry. Great for oysters.

2005 Huber Sauvignon Blanc, Traisental, Austria--not your average SB, this one bursts forth with ripe tropical fruit aromas, white peach and apricot flavors and a refreshing finish. Great with salad greens and smoked salmon.

2003 Frogtown Cellars Rousanne, Lumpkin County, Georgia--full and rich with notes of almond, honeysuckle and mango. A tad oily but good for rich seafood items like scallops, salmon or swordfish.

Hook
3241 M Street, NW
Washington, DC 20007
202.625.4488

Where to Go Next

2007-03-25T07:58:00.000-04:00

Planning your summer jaunt for '07?

Add BC (as in British Columbia, Canada) to the list of wine-friendly escapes. BC's Okanagan Valley is an undiscovered gem just North of the U.S. border with picturesque hills, orchards, vineyards and the impressive 68-mile long Okanagan Lake. The area offers a wide range of activities beyond wine tasting and gourmet eats: golf, waterskiing, cycling, hiking, camping, horseback riding, fishing plus skiing, snowboarding and snowmobiling in the winter. There are some 65 wineries located throughout the Valley with many receiving international acclaim. The region reminds me California's Napa Valley but without the mass wine tasting crowds.

To get there:

Kelowna, the region's main commercial center, is just a short flight from either Vancouver or Seattle or roughly 4 hours via car from Vancouver.

Wines to taste:

Of the over 75 wines tasted on a recent trip, Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, and Syrah stand out among the pack. A few great Bordeaux style blends were also notable.

Spots not to miss:

Quail's Gate Estate Winery and the Old Vines Patio Restaurant with breathtaking water views. Try the Chesselas-Pinot Blanc blend with notes of fresh honeydew melon, fresh grass and a lemon citrus finish or the Family Reserve Pinot Noir with dried cranberries, toasted cedar notes and a fresh finish.

Mission Hill Family Estate--one of BC's largest wineries set atop a hill overlooking Okanagan Lake with seasonal terrace dining. Don't miss the Gewurztraminer with passion fruit, guava and lychee notes or the Pinor Noir Reserve with sweet cherry and raspberry notes, hints of clove and vanilla, light tannins and a lingering cherry spice finish.

Mt. Boucherie Estate Winery--just down the road from Mission Hill and Quail's Gate, this small family-owned winery produces a killer Semillon with intense herbal and citrus aromas and a creamy mouthfeel plus a show-stopping Pinot Noir Ice Wine with baked apple, dried cherry and caramel notes.

Nk'Mip Cellars--North America's first Aboriginal owned and operated winery overlooking Osoyoos Lake at the southern end of the Valley. Sample their stellar Pinot Blanc with its explosion of tropical fruit, pineapple and crisp, racy finish and the delicate fruit-driven Qwam Qwmt Pinot Noir with cherry, strawberry and vanilla notes.

Borrowing Owl Vineyards and Sonora Room Restaurant with outdoor terrace dining overlooking the vineayrds and nearby Osoyoos Lake. Sample the Pinot Gris with bright citrus notes and the Pinot Noir with dried stawberry, raspberry and spice flavors.

Blasted Church Vineyards--a small and unpretentious winery set in a log cabin overlooking Skaha Lake. Don't miss the Chardonnay Musque with tangerine, grapefruit, pineapple notes and a clean, crisp finish or Hatfield's Fuse white blend with floral aromas, tropical fruit, green melon and a crisp finish.

Where to Eat:

While in Kelowna, don't miss Waterfront Wines, a newish retail shop stocked with BC wines with adjoining bar/bistro featuring creative Pacific Northwest fare. Also notable is The Rotten Grape along Kelowna's waterfront with small plates inspired for wine pairing. 231 Bernard Avenue, 250-717-8466.

Where to Stay:

The area boasts a number of small boutique hotels, travel lodge motels, and an interesting array of bed and breakfasts. My top pick: Accounting for Tatse Bed and Breakfast on the western side of Lake Okanagan and rooms with lake-view vistas. Owned and operated by husband-wife team Rosemary and Michael Botner, Accounting for Tatse offers tastefully wine-inspired rooms minutes from Quail's Gate and Mission Hill Family Estate. The Botner's will also customize a wine tasting tour during your visit.

For more information and to plan your Okanagan escape, visit Tourism Kelowna.

Spring is in the Air...

2007-03-22T21:10:00.000-04:00

Finally. Its been a long winter. Specifically the last month or so. The ice. The sleet. The snow. And the wind. Now that I have shed my wool coat, it seems appropriate to break out the fresh and floral whites. And lately, I've tasted through an overwhelming array of interesting whites to whet the palate:

2005 Xarmant Txakolina, Txakoli de Alava, Spain--not sure if I've ever tasted a better sushi wine to be honest, bright with notes of banana, lemon citrus and a clean, crisp finish. Blend of Hondarribi Zuri, Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Courbu from the Basque region of Spain.

2004 Oremus Tokaji Dry Furmint 'Mandolás', Tokaj-Hegyalja, Hungary--this must be one of the most interesting wines tasted in a long while, aromas of sweet peach and white lilies, with hints of lavender and mango, round on the palate with a clean and floral finish. Reminds me a bit of Viognier, but more concentrated and floral. A must try!

2005 Cascina Bongiovanni Arneis, Langhe, Piedmont, Italy--delicate aromas of banana and mango with minerality and citrus notes, crisp acidity on the finish.

2005 Gabriel Meffre 'Laurus' Côtes du Rhône Blanc, Rhône Valley, France--blend of Roussane and Viognier with aromas of peach, mango and touch of almond on the finish, medium bodied with a rich and silky texture.

2005 Cline Viognier, California--whoa! This smells like a tutti-fruity fruit bomb with loads of tropical fruit aromas and almost sickly-sweet flavors. Why is it that California Viognier always seems to have overpowering fruit flavors plus residual sugar? This isn't supposed to be like White Zinfandel folks! Leave this one at the wine shop. Sad, as I tend to like Cline's wines.

2006 Bidoli Pinot Grigio, Friuli, Italy--normally I find Pinot Grigios to have a certain sameness, until this one rolled into my mouth--slightly herbaceous a la Sauvignon Blanc with lemon citrus and minerality and a lip-smacking finish. Aged on the lees for a bit of complexity.

2005 Alphonse Mellot 'Les Pénitents' Chardonnay, Vin de Pays des Coteaux Charitois, France--a beautiful chard from grapes grown close to Sancerre, green apple and straw notes with nice minerality, subdued almond notes on the finish, medium bodied.

Bitch, Bitch, Bitch

2007-03-08T09:59:00.000-05:00

First there was Bitch (Grenache). Then Bon Bon (Shiraz Rosé). Now the Grateful Palate brings us Pure Evil (Chardonnay) and Evil (Cabernet Sauvignon). These fun little wines hail from our friends 'down under' and for the money, these are great buys for everyday drinking.

2006 Pure Evil Chardonnay, South Australia--ripe and luscious with stone fruit, honeysuckle, and citrus notes. Medium bodied. Smooth finish. Only slightly oaked.

2006 Bon Bon Shiraz Rosé, South Australia--sweet strawberry and raspberry notes, hint of spice, crisp and refreshing with a lingering finish. Medium bodied.

2005 Bitch Grenache, Barossa Valley, Australia--this wine is defiinitely not a bitch to drink--an explosion of luscious black currant, black cherry, plum, velvety texture and notes of smoke on the finish.

2005 Evil Cabernet Sauvignon, Southeastern Australia--ripe and juicy with sweet plum, black raspberry and eucalyptus notes. Smooth and easy drinking. Spice notes on the finish. Medium/full-bodied.

I wonder what's next? The Evil Bitch?

The Sake Hunt Continues!

2007-03-02T21:37:00.000-05:00

I am on a sake hunt again--looking for new sake for Oya's sake program. Here are a few I recently enjoyed:

Hakutsuru Draft Sake, Kobe, Japan--described by the vendor as Japan's equivalent to Bud Light..is that a good thing? Sweet floral aromas, fresh, smooth, crisp finish.

Takara 'Sierra Cold' Ginjo Sake, Berkeley, California--sweet white floral notes, smooth, creamy, lingering finish.

Sho Chiku Bai Organic Rice Nama Sake--intense earthy aromas followed by crisp pear and apple notes, clean, smooth, dry.

Sho Chiku Bai Premium Ginjo Sake, Berkeley, California--intense floral notes with licorice understones, complex, smooth, dry.

Vin Rouge from New Zealand?

2007-02-22T20:55:00.000-05:00

Most people associate New Zealand wine with crisp and racy Sauvignon Blanc. Sure its the most planted grape variety down there, but New Zealand also makes a fair amount of red vino. Fact: Pinot Noir is the second most planted grape with Merlot coming in fourth. The better Bordeaux style reds come from the North Island (Waiheke Island and Hawkes Bay) and the best Pinots are coming out of the South Island, especially the rugged Central Otago near Queenstown (pictured left).

I recently tasted a few stellar reds worth seeking out for your collection:

2004 Wild Earth Pinot Noir, Central Otago--notes of black plum, black currant, gamey aromas with a hint of spice, complex and elegant with dark brooding flavors and a persistent finish.

2002 Peregrine Pinot Noir, Central Otago--rich and complex with black plum, spice and a funky, gamey nose, silky black cherry and plum flavors followed by tar and leather on the finish.

1998 Mission Estate Winery 'Gimblett Road Reserve' Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot, Hawkes Bay--tobacco and cigar box aromas followed by cassis and black currant flavors, full and round on the palate with dried red fruits and vanilla and cedar on the finish. Still showing some grippy tannins although almost 9 years old.

For more information on the New Zealand wine industry, visit nzwine.com.

Photo of Rippon Vineyards, Central Otago, New Zealand. Copyright Andrew Stover @2004

I Braved the Blizzard...

2007-02-17T19:07:00.000-05:00

Earlier in the week, I braved the ice, snow, wind, cold...all of it, to attend a wine dinner hosted by St. Francis Winery and Grapeseed Bistro & Wine Bar in Bethesda, MD. The event marked the launch of Wild Oak by St. Francis, a new line of premium wines from the Sonoma County winery.

Many of you know that I am not usually a big fan of big name, big production, big marketing budget wines (If you missed the story, click here). I did however, enjoy the Wild Oak Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauv. Are they worth $28.99 retail? Maybe, I'll let you be the judge if you can get ahold of these wines, which are apparently only available in small quantities in select markets at this time.

2005 Wild Oak Chardonnay, Sonoma County--notes of toasted almond, oak, baked apple with a hint of tropical fruit. Fat and buttery on the palate. Slight mineral notes on the finish. Supposedly made in the 'burgundian style' but I have yet to find a fat and buttery White Burgundy. Could be my palate was off.

2004 Wild Oak Old Vines Zinfandel, Sonoma County--sweet raspberry and spice notes. Smooth and balanced. Not overripe and alcoholic like some Zins. Touch of smoke on the finish. Medium bodied.

2003 Wild Oak Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County--mineral and green pepper aromas. Smooth and silky with black plum and cassis notes. Silky tannins leading to spice on the finish. Medium-full bodied. Uses only fruit from mountain vineyards. Nice show.

Red Wine Kinda Mood

2007-02-09T21:16:00.000-05:00

Hey. Ever get the urge to just pour yourself a glass of wine. But not just any wine will do--it's gotta be red. Well, I'm having one of those moments this evening, so I uncorked two bottles I acquired on vineyard trips, a Syrah from Argentina and a Pinot Noir from France. I'm diggin on the Syrah a little more than the Pinot Noir to be honest--its a little TOO austere for me. Go figure, its a Sancerre Rouge from the Loire Valley. Anybody else get in the mood to just pour a big glass of red wine, especially when its 15 degrees outside?

2002 Bodega Navarro Correas 'Colleccion Privada' Syrah, Mendoza, Argentina--blackberry and plum aromas, smooth and silky on the palate with ripe black fruit flavors. Touch of spice. Medium bodied. Not bad for a wine I picked up in a grocery store in Mendoza back in 2004.

2002 Domaine du Carrou (Dominique Roger) Sancerre Rouge, Loire Valley, France--a light bodied Pinot Noir with dried fruit and earth notes. Seems a little thin and overly austere for my taste. Found this one in the wine shop at Le Printemps in Paris back in 2005. Another glass of Syrah, please?

What do you all like to drink when its the dead of winter?

SF--Just Do It!

2007-01-09T00:00:00.000-05:00

Going to SF (as in San Francisco)? You gotta check out the following spots:

Bocadillos--a newly opened spot near North Beach for Spanish and Basque tapas.

Must haves: fried calamari with romesco sauce, catalan sausage bocadillo with arugula and shaved manchego, and a glass of Txakoli, a fresh, white Basque wine.

Supperclub SF--sister to spots in Rome and Amsterdam, this is one of the most unique dining experiences I have seen. Kick-off your shoes and have dinner 'in bed' with a few of your closest friends. Ever-changing five-course 'surprise' menu.

Must haves: a sense of humor and a bottle of Champagne.

VinoVenue--a newish wine tasting-retail spot in the SOMA district. Customers purchase 'tasting cards' of varying denominations and place into tasting tasting to receive one ounce pours which range from $1 to $28.

Must haves: a taste of one of the reserve wines, like the Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon.

Beard Papa's--brand new Japanese sweets cafe for amazing cream puffs and eclairs. Choose from vanilla bean, chocolate or the flavor of the week (strawberry, green tea, caramel).

Must haves: A cup 'o Joe and time to walk off those spare calories, preferably up SF's magnificent hills.

Rosenblum Cellars--just a short ferry ride across the bay to Alameda to this warehouse-cum-tasting room for award-winning wines.

Must haves: Zinfandel 2004, San Francisco Bay--ripe plum, candied cherries with hints of earth and chocolate. Soft tannins.

'Rominger Vineyards' Syrah 2003, Yolo County--big, fat and delicious. Chewy cherry and ripe plum aromas with spice and chocolate notes. Round mouthfeel and velvety tannins.

'Rockpile Road' Petite Sirah 2004, Napa Valley--intense blackberry, smokey and cedar aromas, thick and fat on the palate, silky tannins.

Plan your future escape online at www.wheresf.com

Bocadillos photo copyright Andrew Stover, other photos courtesy of their respective websites.

Notes from Seattle

2007-01-08T00:25:00.000-05:00

Found this great little tasting shop in the Pike Place Market in downtown Seattle. The Tasting Room is a co-op winery tasting room dedicated to small boutique Washington State wineries. Many of the wines featured are limited production and hard-to-find.

It was a ridiculously cold day in Seattle--like 20 degrees or so and I had had enough walking around in this make-shift windy city. I bellied up to the bar at the Tasting Room and let proprietor Jen Doak take me on a tour of Washington State Syrah.

I am of the mind that Syrah could be the next big thing from our friends in the Pacific Northwest. The Syrah's I sampled seem to straddle the bridge between the big, overripe California style and the more austere Northern Rhone style. Nice show.

Camaraderie Cellars 'Clifton Vineyard' Syrah 2004--rich and complex, with notes of dark plum, cassis, and vanilla. Medium bodied. Lingering black plum on the finish.

JM Cellars Syrah 2003--rich and brooding aromas of black plum, tobacco, leather. Full bodied with a velvety finish.

Latitude 46N Syrah 2004--cedar, black cherry and blueberry on the nose, hint of leather. Medium bodied with lighter tannins.

Wilridge 'Elephant Mountain Vineyard' Syrah 2004--my favorite of the lot! Floral notes, almost like white lillies. Cinnamon spice followed by dark plum, blueberry and a touch of vanilla. Medium body with silky tannins. Note: This wine just arrived at OYA Restaurant & Lounge at 777 9th Street, NW.

The Tasting Room logo courtesy of www.winesofwashington.com

La Tienda del Vino de Jaleo Crystal City

2007-01-07T23:31:00.000-05:00

Finally had a chance to peruse the wares at Jose Andres' Wine Shop at Jaleo Crystal City restaurant. The shop specializes in only Spanish wines and has a great collection to boot. I was most interested in the 1+1=3 Xarel-lo from the Penedès region. I greedily snatched up the last two bottles on the shelf (I am sure there are more) and rushed home to crack one with dinner.

1+1=3 Xarel-lo 2001, Penedès, Spain--Made from one of the native Spanish grapes used in Cava. Gold-hued with lush aromas of pineapple, honey and almond, smooth and creamy on the palate. A Very distinctive wine. Lingering nutty finish. Retail: $20

Pick up a bottle at:

Jaleo Crystal City

2250A Crystal Drive

Arlington, VA

703.413.8181

Wine bottle courtesy of www.umesufan3.com

7 Sips for '07

2007-01-01T22:49:00.000-05:00

Happy 2007!

Add these sips to your to-do list for 2007. I am guessing these are slightly easier to keep than your 'other' New Year's resolutions.

1. Alexander Valley Vineyards 'New Gewürz' Gewürztraminer 2006, North Coast, California--spicy, fruity, yummy! An explosion of rose petal and lychee aromas followed by grapefruit and ginger flavors. Clean, zesty finish. A hint of residual sweetness.

2. M. Lawrence 'Sex' Sparkling Rosé NV, North Coast, California--made in Michigan from California wine. A provacative blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with strawberry and raspberry aromas, yeasty accents on the finish.

3. R. Winery 'Bitch' Grenache 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia--a sassy little number from our friends downunder. Luscious black cherry and plum notes, loads of spice, velvety texture and a hint of smoke on the finish.

4. Goosecross Cellars Chardonnay 2005, Napa Valley, California--you might be over Napa Chardonnay by now, but this one deserves some attention. Small production--just 1200 cases--and you dont need a knife to slice it. Grapefruit and pear aromas with a hint of vanilla. Full and complex with a crisp citrus finish.

5. Cristom 'Mt. Jefferson Cuvée' Pinot Noir 2004, Willamette Valley, Oregon--one whif of this and you might think its Red Burgundy. Elegant cherry and spice aromas with mushroom and wet earth on the finish.

6. Wild Earth Pinot Noir 2004, Central Otago, New Zealand--the name says it all. Dark plum, black currant and wild gamey aromas, rich and elegant mouthfeel with a spicy and persistent finish.

7. Camaraderie Cellars Malbec 2004, Yakima Valley, Washington--unlike its Argentine cousins, this Malbec is not an over-the-top fruit bomb. Think bright and spicy with black cherry, raspberry and a hint of cedar. Medium bodied. Great food wine.

And feel free to send over feedback on any of these suggestions once you taste them.

Drink up!

Vin in Raleigh

2006-11-09T08:19:00.000-05:00

Would you believe that one of America's hottest wine bars is located in Raleigh, North Carolina? Well, believe it. Located in an old ice cream factory in downtown Raleigh lies the hip and friendly Enoteca Vin. Exposed brick walls, wood floors, a large wrap-around bar, 30-bottle cruvinet system and Ashley Christiansen's American-French-Mediterranean fusion cuisine combine to create a food and wine mecca in the good ol' South.

Dishes not to miss:

Wagyu Beef Tartare with Fallot Mustard and Cornichon

Cauliflower Soup with Braised Apple and Black Tea Cured Bacon

Pommes Frites with Malt Vinegar Mayonnaise

Braised Kurobuta Pork Shoulder with Goat Cheese Gnocchi, Lentils, Roasted Beets and Mint

Brown Butter Scallops with Chanterelles, Pink-eyed Peas and Crispy Collards

For wine, diners can choose from over 50 wines by the glass and a reserve list of old wines, including a 1978 Meursault from Jobard--for a mere $125 a bottle. By the glass wines can be sampled in various sizes: 1.5 ounce, 3 ounce, and 5 ounce--perfect for creating a customized flight.

Wines to try:

2002 FX Pichler Riesling Smaragd 'Steinertal', Austria--steely, mineral notes, bit of petrol and lime peel. Smooth, medium bodied, lingering finish. Dry.

1999 Prager Chardonnay Smaragd 'Weissenkirchen', Austria--aromas of honey, apricot, straw, earthy undertones, seems unoaked. Rich. Medium bodied.

2001 Eric Ross 'Saralee's' Pinot Noir, Russian River--cherry and red raspberry aromas, sweet spice and floral undertones. Light tannins, easy drinking.

2004 Bedford Road Pinot Noir, Marlborough, New Zealand--dark plum and fresh raspberry notes, touch of herbal aromas with earthy undertones. Medium bodied.

410 Glenwood Avenue
Raleigh, North Carolina
919.834.3070

Photos coutesy of chiefwino.com

Carolina Wine Trail

2006-11-07T07:17:00.000-05:00

Just back from a great little road trip down to Raleigh, North Carolina and wineries in the Yadkin Valley. Designated an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 2003, the Yadkin Valley borders the Blue Ridge Mountains in Northwestern North Carolina, near Winston-Salem. With its clay-loam soils and temperate climate, the area seems quite suited to growing vinifera, especially Viognier, which outshined most other varietals tasted.

Here is a recap spots tasted:

Chatham Hill Winery

The first stop on the wine hunt. Located off I-40 in Cary, NC in an industrial park. The winery sources grapes from other growers in North Carolina, California and Virginia.

2005 Pinot Grigio, California--made from Lodi, California fruit. Very floral nose, honeysuckle notes. Crisp. Was this acidified? Last time I checked, Lodi is a pretty hot growing area and not necessarily known for its crisp white wines.

2005 Viognier, North Carolina--spicy, peach aromas on the notes. Thin body for a Viognier. Seems watered down.

2001 Cabernet Franc, Virginia--spicy pepper aromas, plum and cherry notes. Thin finish.

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, North Carolina--smells like Cabernet Franc. Spicy pepper notes, plum and black cherry aromas. Light bodied. Not bad if you like very light red wines. Best in Category at the 2006 Atlantic Seaboard Competition. (I think this means that Cabernet Sauvignon probably should not be grown on the East Coast--I guess I am like Robert Parker and I like my Cabs big and juicy.)

2003 Zinfandel, California--Another wine made with Lodi fruit. Spicy aromas but where is the big, juicy Zinfandel fruit? Bitter finish.

NV Christmas White--blend of Chardonnay and French Colombard. Big, intense peach and melon aromas. Made in the style of an off-dry Riesling. Tasty!

NV Pomegranate Wine--This is a fun wine. Pom juice added to a dry white wine after fermentation? The winery would not disclose exactly how this wine is made. Fruity aromas with distinct Pomegranate flavor. Off-dry. This would be a good wine for Thanksgiving or Christmas dinner.

Hanover Park Vineyard

My first stop in the Yadkin Valley. Hanover Park has roughly 5.5 acres under vine and conducts tastings in a lovely farmhouse circa 1897.

2003 Chardonnay--fermented in stainless steel. Crisp green apple and citrus notes. Refreshing. Lingering finish.

2003 Viognier--intense pineapple and apricot aromas. Melon and honeysuckle flavors. Fairly light bodied. A tad bit of residual sugar on the finish.

2002 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay--aged in Hungarian Oak. Savory oak and toasted vanilla noted followed by baked apple flavors. Medium bodied. Crisp finish.

2003 Mourvedre--blend of Mourvedre and Syrah. Spicy aromas. Almost tastes like a Cab Franc. Light bodied, light tannins. Lingering cherry spice finish.

2004 Chambourcin--sweet tart cherry aromas followed by spicy white. Light bodied with light tannins.

2001 Cabernet Franc--spicy green pepper aromas. Light bodied with light tannins.

2001 Cabernet Sauvignon--aromas of black currant and cherry spice. Medium body, fairly light tannins.

2002 Michael's Blend--Blend of Cab Franc, Cab Sauv, Merlot and Syrah. Aromas of dried red fruits and spice. Medium bodied. Fairly easy tannins.

Flint Hill Vineyards

After two seemingly lack luster tastings, I happened upon a little spot called Flint Hill. I was blown away by their 2005 Viognier--that just MIGHT be better than the famed Chrysalis vineyards Viognier from Virginia.

2005 Viognier--intoxicating floral, peach and apricot notes followed by juicy tropical fruit. Well-balanced fruit and alcohol. Simply fabulous!

2005 Chardonnay--green apple notes with slight oak undertones. Aged in neutral oak for three months. Crisp. Refreshing.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon--notes of spice and blackberry. Medium body with light tannins.

2005 Olde Yattken--off dry blend of Chardonnay and Viognier (Why are they using the fab Viognier in this blend??). Apricot and peach notes. Fairly refreshing. Not cloying.

2005 Crushed Velvet--Made from the Chambourcin grape. Sweet spice notes followed by black cherry and raspberry notes. Definitely a must with chocolate desserts.

RagApple Lassie Vineyards

The last stop on the tour before the drive home to Virginia yielded a few interesting finds, like the 'Boonville Blanc' off-dry Viognier, a perfect wine to sip with fresh fruit based desserts.

2005 Pinot Gris--notes of fresh figs, honey and pineapple. Medium bodied. A bit dull.

2004 Viognier--classic floral and honeysuckle notes. Medium bodied. Tad flat and thin on the finish.

2004 Chardonnay--toasted oak and baked apple aromas. A tad buttery. Barrel-fermented and sue lie aged. Another flat finish.

2003 Merlot--cherry and anise notes with a hint of spice. Light and a bit thin.

2004 Cabernet Sauvignon--a hint of dried fruit with underripe fruit notes. Light. Thin.

2004 Syrah--spice and black pepper notes. Light. Thin.

2004 Zinfandel--juicy red fruit aromas with a hint of chocolate. But where is the big robust classic Zinfandel fruit? Light body, light tannins.

First Blush NV--I try to steer clear of wines with the word "blush" in the title, but this was kinda fun. A blend of Traminette, Marsanne, Semillon and Malbec. Slight salmon color. Rose and lychee notes. Medium body. Citrus on the finish. Off-dry.

Rockford Red NV--blend of Cab Franc, Merlot, Cab Sauv, and Zinfandel. Red fruit aromas followed by chocolate-covered cherries. Medium body. Semi-sweet.

Boonville Blanc NV--made from 100% Viognier. Orange blossom and apricot notes followed by a hint of pear. Medium bodied. Semi-sweet. An interesting use of the Viognier grape.

Evening Sunset NV--made from the Symphony grape. Rich and intense with fresh grape, lychee and muscat-like aromas. Not overly cloying. Good dessert wine.

So my first jaunt into the wilds of North Carolina wine country uncovered a few finds, some great scenery and left me looking for some better red wine. Unfortunately, I didn't have a chance to grab any of the barbecue, which I hear is quite good. I bet those thin reds would pair quite nicely with a pulled-pork sandwich smothered in tangy Carolina barbecue sauce.

Pumpkin Pie Anyone?

2006-10-28T12:37:00.000-04:00

Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar celebrates fall with a special six-course Pumpkin Tasting Menu with wine pairings. Chef Richard Brandenburg has created a sumptuous menu using pumpkin (which is a fruit by the way) in a number of unexpected ways. Wines have been paired by nationally-renowned wine consultant, Leslie Sbrocco, author of the newly released book, The Simple & Savvy Wine Guide.

Earlier this week I had the opportunity to sample the spectacular menu with Leslie Sbrocco while discussing her new book. Here is a run down of the pairings:

Slivered Scallop Ceviche and Roasted Pumpkin with Arugula and Peppers
Paired with Hoffstater Pinot Grigio, Alto Adige, Italy

Wine Notes: aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle, zesty lemon citrus on the palate, crisp finish. Nice acid for pairing with the scallops and acidity of the dish.

Crispy Sardine and Pumpkin Confit with White Balsamic Ginger Sauce
Paired with Michele Chiarlo Cotese de Gavi, Veneto, Italy

Wine Notes: Full and rich with honey and lemon citrus notes. Medium bodied. Not a horrible pairing; however, the wine seemed a bit dry for the sweetness of the pumpkin confit. A riesling or traminer from Alto Adige would have been a better selection.

Bone Marrow Ravioli and Pumpkin Risotto with Basil Pesto
Paired with Antinori Cervaro Della Sala, Umbria, Italy

Wine Notes: Blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto. Powerful and rich, apricot and sherry-like nut aromas, with earthy/mushroomy notes on the palate. Full-bodied. Great pairing with the nutty flavors of the risotto and pumpkin seeds. Also good body match.

Savory Pumpkin Pie and Roast Quail with Wild Mushrooms and Port Sauce
Paired with d'Arenberg 'Ironstone Pressings' Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre, McLaren Vale, Australia

Wine Notes: An amazing wine from the 1999 vintage. Aromas of dried cranberry, mushroom/earth notes, a touch of cedar. Medium-bodied. Matches well with the quail and mushrooms. Pumpkin pie is amazing....very savory as no sugar is added.

Venison Loin with Pumpkin Ice Cream, Morello Cherry Sauce and Chesnut Puree
Paired with Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc Barolo, Piedmont, Italy

Wine Notes: Aromas of dark cherry with a hint of chocolate, smooth on the palate with a big tannin bite. Could have been softened through decanting. Nice match for the meat and also the cherry and nut flavors in the dish.

Pumpkin Spiced Cake and Mascarpone Cream
Paired with Domaine de Durban Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Rhone Valley, France

Wine notes: aromas of spice and apricot followed by a touch of honeysuckle on the palate. Sweet enough to handle the dessert but not overly cloying (too sweet/thick). Nice body match between wine and dessert.

The Pumpkin Tasting Menu is offered through Thanksgiving for $60 plus $20 for the wine flight.

Urbana Restaurant & Wine Bar
2121 P Street, NW
Washington, DC 20036
202.956.6650

Photo courtesy of Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar

I think I'm Turning Japanese....

2006-10-18T21:31:00.000-04:00

Sheesh. I think I am about to turn into a rice grain or better yet, I might be turning Japanese (I really think so). Lately, chiefwino has been tasting, tasting, tasting---not wine, but lots of Sake.

You all know Sake. The traditional Japanese 'wine' that some love to hate. I will admit, I was not a fan. There is just something about the aroma and flavor that I did not dig. It could be that often overwhelming moldy aroma found on the nose or maybe the bitter finish from a swig of cheap hot sake at a mediocre sushi joint.

Whatever the case, I am now a convert. Credit my recent restaurant sake list projects I have undertaken and a few vendors hawking incredible, artisanal sakes.
It also doesn't hurt that most of the tastings took place with a large plate of sushi on the side.

Sake is made via an intense brewing process using rice, yeast, mold and lots of spring water. In fact, the final product is roughly 80% water. Basically the rice is washed, steam cooked and then mixed with yeast and koji. Koji is a special mold spore which when cultivated on the rice releases enzymes which break down starch into sugars that can be fermented by yeast into alcohol (no wonder I encounter moldy aromas on Sake!) After fermentation is complete, the liquid is pressed, filtered, blended and pasteurized.

One thing to note is the various grades of sake. Before the rice is washed and steamed, a certain amount of the outer husk is polished away. The amount of polishing greatly influences the flavor of the final product.

A few terms to note:

Junmai/Honjozo--The lowest level of premium sake. At least 30% of the outer husk polished away. Honjozo refers to Sake with additional distilled alcohol added. If the word Junmai appears on a label, it means only rice alcohol.

Ginjo--At least 40% of the rice grain polished away. More complex flavors and often fruity and floral.

Dai-ginjo--At least 50% of the rice grain polished away. This is ultra-premium sake and often very expensive. These are often heavier and fuller than the other styles. I tend to note a black licorice aroma on some of the dai-ginjo sake I have sampled.

Nigori--these are unfiltered sakes often with small rice chunks.

Now with that basic understanding of the sake production process and a little vocabulary, you should be ready to go out and find something that suits your personal taste. Oh and regarding the question of hot or cold: most premium sake should be served slightly chilled...say around 50-60 degrees. Like wine, sake served too cold will not release aromatics. Sake served warm is generally lower quality.

Here are a few favorites from my recent tastings:

Hakushika Chokara 'Extra Dry' Junmai,
Hyogo Prefecture, Japan
Refreshing and clean, hint of grapefruit, well-balanced

Kiku-Masamune Taru-Sake Junmai,
Hyogo Prefecture, Japan
Rich, smooth, hint of green apple, slight cigar box aromas, aged in Yoshino cedar

Kasumi Tsuru Kimoto Extra Dry,
Hyogo Prefecture, Japan
Light, lively citrus notes, a bit creamy, clean, dry

Ichishima 'Karen Coy' Junmai
Niigata Prefecture, Japan
Fragrant, lychee, apple and strawberry notes, clean, crisp, slightly sweet

Yuki No Bosha 'Cabin in the Snow' Junmai-ginjo,
Akita Prefecture, Japan
Soft, notes of strawberry, peach, a hint of licorice,
crisp, clean, dry

Minogawa Koshi No Omachi Dai-ginjo,
Niigata Prefecture, Japan
Super-premium sake with intense aromas of spice, black licorice, clean, dry, made from Omachi rice, one of the best rice for sake

Rihaku Shuzo 'Dreamy Clouds'
Tokubetsu Junmai Nigori,
Shimanae Prefecture, Japan
Creamy, complex, prune and nut aromas, unfiltered

Poochi-Poochi Naturally Sparkling Nigori,
Fukushima Prefecture, Japan
Light, smooth, sweet fruit aromas, slightly unfiltered, naturally effervescent. This one is extremely fun to drink...so fun, you might drink an entire bottle and not notice.

Bottle images from www.ratebeer.com

A Taste of Lebanon

2006-09-30T11:27:00.001-04:00

Earlier this week, I was invited to taste the portfolio from Lebanon's Château Musar with Ralph Hochar, one of the winery's owners. Located in the Bekaa Valley of Lebanon, Musar is known for its outstanding flagship red wine--a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan, which is typically released 7 years after vintage.

One interesting fact: all of Musar's vines are grown as bush vines (goblet training)---no wire training is used.

Here are some notes from the tasting:

Cuvée Blanc 2004--made from a native Lebanese grape named Obaideh. It is believed Obaideh is related to the Semillon grape. Intense aromas of almond and citrus followed by a somewhat oily mouthfeel and crisp acidity. Great for seafood.

Château Musar White 1998--blend of the native Marwah and Obaideh grapes. Deep, golden yellow color with notes of banana, mango and almonds. Almost has sherry-like aromas. Rich and complex on the palate with a lingering finish.

Cuvée Rosé 2004--made from 100% Cinsault grapes and produced using the saignée method--where juice is "bled" off of a red wine fermentation which results in pink colored wine. Intense ripe red fruit and strawberry jam notes. Smooth and spicy on the palate. Lingering finish.

Cuvée Rouge 2003--blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Carignan and Syrah. Beautiful ripe strawberry and cherry aromas followed by a smooth, silky mouthfeel. Light-medium bodied with soft tannins.

Hochar Père et Fils Red 2001--blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan. Somewhat of a second wine to the flagship Château Musar Red (see below). Rich and complex. Aromas of dried sweet fig, tobacco, leather. Smooth and silky mouthfeel. Medium bodied with light-medium tannins.

Château Musar Red 1998--blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carignan--the flagship red wine. Intense aromas of earth, dried red fruits, tobacco and spice. Silky mouthfeel. Well-balanced with light-medium tannins.

Château Musar Red 1997--blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Carigan. My favorite of the lot. Robust aromas of dried cranberries, cherry, tobacco and a hint of chocolate. Silky and round on the palate with light-medium tannins.

Photos courtesy of Ralph Hochar, Château Musar.

Customize Your Wine

2006-09-09T11:14:00.000-04:00

How many times has the thought of making wine crossed your mind? A wine that is personalized to your unique palate? Well, now you can with a little help from the guys at Crushpad.

During my recent jaunt to San Francisco, I had the pleasure of touring Crushpad's state-of-the-art winemaking facility located in the Potrero Hill 'hood of SF. Opened in 2004, Crushpad offer small lot, custom wine making services to professional winemakers all the way down to the novice wine enthusiast who want to create ultra premium, luxury class wines.

Customers control the entire winemaking process from choosing the type of fruit used, how the fruit is processed, the fermentation, the press, cellaring, and bottling. Customers can be involved as much or as little as desired in the process. For those outside the Bay area, their Crushnet virtual winery system allows live webcam access while your custom wine is being made.

Each wine is made in one barrel lots, which is roughly 25 cases. Grape choices range from Viognier, Rousanne, Marsanne, Chardonnay, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Sauvignon from top wine growers in Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and Santa Barbara counties. In a given year, the facilities produces about 12,000 cases of wine--definitely a boutique operation.

During the visit, I was able to sample a few of the wines being made by other customers: the Pinot Noirs were simply stunning--silky and smooth new world style with ripe red strawberry and cherry notes followed by toasted vanilla, almond and spice. I only wish I had room for 25 cases of wine! Anyone up to share in making a barrel with me?

Crushpad
1890 Bryant Street
San Francisco, CA 94110
415-864-4232

A Little Sweet, A Little Savory

2006-09-07T22:32:00.000-04:00

Whew! Summer has abruptly come to an end and I need to catch up on a few of the exciting spots I've visited over the summer (think Chicago, Vancouver, Okanagan Valley, San Francisco....)

First up: The July Chicago adventure featuring Sweets and Savories and Chef David Richards' modern take on classic French cuisine.

After being delayed one day due to nasty weather which forced the closure of O'Hare International Airport (imagine that...problems at O'Hare), I finally arrived in the Windy Cindy for a little adventure with my friend Andrea. We descended upon a quaint French spot called Sweets and Savories in Lincoln Park.

Once inside, the petit restaurant glowed with pink and brown tones and an upscale Parisian bistro feel (complete with vintage French tunes). Paul, the General Manager, announced "there's no menu tonight. Is there anything you cannot eat?" Oh boy, a Chef's tasting!

And what a Chef's tasting indeed--beginning with the soon to be banned seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras topped with caramelized pineapple and chocolate sauce--it literally melts in your mouth. (Unfortunately the Chicago Council has since banned the sale of Foie Gras. Damn those PETA people!)

The Foie Gras was followed by a curried potato leek soup with green apples and olive oil paired with the Alain Roy Montagny 1er Cru Burgundy (light, crisp, with notes of green apple, lemon citrus and mineral undertones).

Each subsequent course seemed better than the last: fennel and orange salad; seafood ceviche; pan roasted Alaskan Halibut with heirloom tomatoes, roasted corn butter, lobster velouté and baby cress; and finally, grilled beef tenderloin with sauce Perigord, haricot verte and lobster mashed potatoes.

After six courses, I couldn't stuff in another bite. And then...The 'sweets' arrived--Bartlett pear sorbet and their infamous blueberry cream soda, two amazing treats not to be wasted. Seven courses and three hours later, I ordered an eighth course: fresh wheelchair served with side of assistance back to my hotel.

Sweets and Savories
1534 West Fullerton Avenue
Chicago, IL 60614
773.281.6778

Photo courtesy Sweets and Savories

Le Bar-A-Vin

2006-09-04T02:36:00.000-04:00

Enjoy this feature I have running in the October issue of Where Washington Magazine.

Begone mint juleps!

Washington, DC loves wine.

The capital leads the nation in per capita sales and consumption of wine. Could it be those embassy soirees? Those lobbyist-politico schmooze fests? Nooooo. Credit these stats to the growing sophistication of Washington diners, who ask that their food be paired with something more exciting than the house Chardonnay. But wine matters not just at the big-list, power steakhouses. Consider the latest trend: the wine bar-cum-restaurant, in France le bar-a vin, that touts unique and esoteric vintages and contemporary foods to match.

Bar Pilar

Locale: In the hoppin’ 14th and U zone, 2 blocks from the U-Cardoza Metro and next-door to neighborhood fave and sister spot, Café Saint-Ex.

Feel: Reminiscent of a Parisian wine bistro—dimly lit, exposed brick walls, antique wrap-around wood bar and nautical artifacts. “Pilar,” after all, takes it name from the beloved boat of a famed barfly, Ernst Hemingway. Must see (after a few glasses of vino): the instant photo booth in the rear.

Scene: Casual crowd of 20- and 30-somethings from the neighborhood and a smattering of out-of-towners

List: Small, yet smart and well-priced. Choices range from boutique Italian, Spanish, and French, with a few Californians, to bottles from Greece and Slovenia. Glasses $4-8, bottles $16-70.

Food: Chef Barton Seaver keeps changing his Italian inspired small bites, all designed for pairing. Think potatoes and Moroccan paprika aioli paired with 1+1=3 Xarel-lo, a light and refreshing white from the Penedes region of Spain, or seared ahi tuna with pea shoots paired with Rose of Cabernet from Domaine de Montmarin of the Languedoc region, southern France.

1833 14th Street, NW, 202.265.1765
Washington, DC

Sonoma Restaurant and Wine Bar

Locale: Two blocks southeast of the Capitol on a bustling stretch of Penn Ave.

Feel: Upscale bistro with exposed brick walls, cozy seating and a long bar for mix-and-mingle. Upstairs an intimate lounge with sofas.

Scene: An energized crowd of late 20s-30s Hill-staffers, Capitol Hill denizens and maybe a Congressman or two.

List: Over 40 wines “on tap” (à la cruvinet) by the glass and half-glass and 100 by the bottle, most from Sonoma County, CA and Italy.

Food: Drew Trautmann’s unpretentious Mediterranean cuisine, honoring organic ingredients and local produce. Think squash blossom-goat cheese ravioli with Margaret Anne Tocai/Arneis of Mendocino County, a zingy, fresh white with notes of green apple, lemon and racy acidity. Or local sweet corn risotto, chanterelles and in-house prosciutto with Ascheri Dolcetto d’Alba, a light, fruity Piedmontese red.

223 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, 202.544.8088
Washington, DC

Tallula Restautant

Locale: Hip Clarendon ‘hood in Arlington, Virginia at Washington Blvd. and Pershing Drive. Façade’s neon sign says EAT!

Feel: Unpretentious pair of lounges plus dining room and adjoining wine shop for take-out.

Scene: Neighborhood spot for after-work crowd—bureaucrats, young professionals, even Boomers.

List: More than 70 by the glass or half glass, 300 by the bottle, some “boutique” bottlings under catchy heds like “tickling your nose,” “wickedly ponderous.”

Food: Nathan Anda’s spins on classic American include fried green tomatoes paired with Champalou Vouvray, a slightly off-dry white with notes of peach, white flower and zingy acidity. Also seared foie gras and caramelized pineapple with Lillypilly Noble Blend, an intense, luxurious dessert wine with notes of orange blossom and tropical fruit. Note: the Amuse Yourself menu of bites like baby burger with black truffle butter, duck spring roll, beer-battered corn dog, steak tartare.

2761 Washington Boulevard, 703.778.5051
Arlington, VA

Oya Restaurant & Lounge
(Yours truly developed this wine program.)

Locale: One-half block north of the Gallery Place Metro and the Smithsonian American Art Museum and National Portrait Gallery in the hoppin’ Penn Quarter.

Feel: Show-biz LA meets Miami with a red crocodile skin bar, white leather lounge seats, 2.5 ton chain-link curtain and a 20-foot waterfall.

Scene: A mix of late 20s to 40s crowd with the occasional celebrity (recent sightings: Hillary Clinton, Wolf Blitzer, Patrick Ewing). Weekday sushi cocktail hour.

List: Esoteric mix of international wines divided into flavor profiles (think fresh/lip-smacking whites, juicy/savory reds) plus a few Virginia wines from star producers. Wines by half-glass complement small plates.

Food: Jonathan Seningen’s French-Asian small plates and Chef Tu’s sushi rolls. Think hanger steak and horseradish flan paired with Santa Barbara Winery Syrah, an intense red with aromas of black currant, leather and a touch of spice, or seared chicken with peanut dressing and pea shoots served with a glass of Blenheim Vineyards Chardonnay from Dave Matthews’ winery in Charlottesville.

777 9th Street, NW, 202.393.1400
Washington, DC

Bardeo

Locale: Cleveland Park’s restaurant row, few steps south of the Cleveland Park Metro and beside fine dining sibling Ardeo.

Feel: Contemporary vibes from sleek purple leather booths, long marble bar and intriguing photography by Russian émigré artists the Gerlovins.

Scene: Smart after-work crowd of young professionals stopping for a quick bite and ‘hood folks, some famed journalists, who can’t resist create-your-own wine flights.

List: Full glass, half glass or flights from interesting Old and New World wines.

Food: Christopher Bradley’s American small plates: goat cheese salad (beets, baby frisée and walnuts) paired with Valdelainos Verdejo, a crisp Spanish white, or tuna melt panini paired with Tyrrell’s “Lost Block” Pinot Noir from Australia.

3311 Connecticut Avenue, NW, 202.244.6550
Washington, DC

Vino Volo

Locale: Bustling Terminal C at Dulles International Airport, next to Gate C4!

Feel: Atypical, upscale lounge with warm woods, leather club chairs, wrap-around tasting bar and a shop for wine on the fly. The name is a clever play on “wine flight.”

Scene: Mix of business and leisure travelers killing time before their next departure.

List: Organized as eight themed tasting flights (like Taste of Virginia, California Kings, Barbecue Reds).

Food: Snack-sized small plates paired to the themed flights. Sample chickpea and sausage chili paired with Artesa Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, a robust red with black currant, black olive and vanilla notes, or smoked salmon rolls paired with Rappahannock Cellars Viognier, a Virginia wine with intoxicating tropical fruit aroma.

Washington Dulles International Airport, Terminal C, 703.661.1999
Dulles, VA

Urbana Restaurant and Wine Bar

Locale: Beside the glam Hotel Palomar two and a half blocks west of Dupont Circle.

Feel: Swank with dim lights, velvet couches, dramatic wall of ‘U’-labeled wines and open kitchen.

Scene: Hip crowd of travelers and ‘hoodies from late 20s and up.

List: A large book of California, French and Italian wines by the glass or quartino (one and a half glasses of wine)

Food: Imaginative northern Italian and southern French cuisine by Chef Richard Brandenburg. Faves: corn-battered, gorgonzola-stuffed figs with balsamic drizzle paired with Nino Franco Prosecco, a light-hearted bubbly with green apple and pear aromas, or pea agnolotti (sp?) with lobster and chorizo paired with Teruzzi e Puthod’s Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a refreshing Tuscan white with floral and almond notes.

2121 P Street, NW, 202.956.6650
Washington, DC

Charlie Palmer Steak

Locale: One block from the U.S. Capitol anchoring a sleek office building at Constitution Avenue and Louisiana Avenue.

Feel: Power dining without the stuffy steakhouse décor thanks to large, open dining areas, a gurgling waterfall and mod furnishings like oversized leather chairs. Horizontal, showcase wine cellar flanks the passage from bar to dining.

Scene: Powerbrokers from Capitol Hill, K Street lobbyists, plus foodies in the know.

List: All-American wines from 40 of the 50 states. Sommelier Nadine Brown says, “The last 10 states are extremely difficult to source because of antiquated liquor laws.” Amen.

Food: Progressive American fare by Bryan Voltaggio. One fine match of terroir: grilled Idaho wagyu sirloin paired with the powerful and rich Sawtooth Syrah from Snake River, also Idaho. Or grilled peach and blue cheese salad paired with Montinore Estate Gewürtztraminer of Oregon, a white with rose petal and lychee nut aromas and a crisp finish.

101 Constitution Avenue, NW, 202.547.8100
Washington, DC

Photos of Oya, Bardeo, Vino Volo courtesy of the restaurants; photos of Bar Pilar, Tallula, Sonoma by Andrew Stover

IDAHO--More Than Just potatoes

2006-08-15T01:21:00.000-04:00

In my neverending quest for the next up-and-coming wine region, I sauntered into Charlie Palmer Steak DC this evening to see what's cookin' with their all-American wine program.

Charlie Palmer Steak DC has an interesting mix of wines--all from the United States. Their goal is to have one wine from each of the 50 states on their menu---however, certain state and local regs prevent some wineries from exporting outside their state boundaries. So far, they have amassed wines from 40 different states...and the last 10 are apparently more difficult to acquire. Don't even get me started on the whole three-tier system and how wholesalers bottle-neck small artesian producers from selling their wares outside state lines. That is a story for another day...

I had been reading about wines from Idaho in various online and print wine media. So far, the press seems encouraging. And why not? The climate for some of the vineyards mirrors that of the great Columbia Valley in Washington State. Consumers don't seem to turn their noses up at Washington State wines, so Idaho wines might be just as good, right? Anyone else have a comment on this?

I parked myself at the bar and started chatting it up with one of the bartenders. My visit to CP Steak was not necessarily just for fun--I was doing some research for a wine bar article I am writing for Where Magazine's Dining Guide.

After I studied the mammoth wine list, Nadine Brown, CP Steak's Sommelier, came over to chat me up. She explained their program and the difficulty in sourcing some of the wines. I asked her to note a few favorites, which included great choices from California, Washington and Oregon, plus a little beauty from Idaho--the Sawtooth Winery Syrah from the Snake River Valley. "It's an incredible wine. We sell quite a bit," she exclaimed.

Sounds good to me. Send it over.

HOLY MOLY. This is some tasty stuff. Did I mention it's from IDAHO?

Sawtooth Winery Syrah 2002, Snake River Valley, Idaho--rich and brooding, with notes of ripe black fruits, chocolate, cedar and a touch of vanilla and earth. An explosion of black currant and chocolate on the palate. Medium body. Velvety texture. Lingering finish of black fruits. A stellar companion to CP Steak's Wagyu Sirloin, which also happens to be sourced from the Snake River Valley.

Try that combo for an unusual pairing of place with place.

Images from charliepalmer.com and sawtoothwinery.com

Wine Bar Divine

2006-08-03T20:47:00.000-04:00

A good wine bar is hard to find. A good wine bar is even harder to find in Washington, DC. Sure there are a number of amazing culinary gems with rockin' wine lists in DC, yet nothing quite like the bar-a-vins of Paris.

Enter: Bar Pilar.

Located in the hoppin' 14th and U Street corridor, Bar Pilar is reminiscent of a cozy Parisian wine bistro in both atmosphere and flavor--specifically, it reminds me of a spot in Paris called L'Ecluse near the Champs Elysées (64, Rue François 1er, 75008 Paris).

From the creators of Café Saint-Ex, Bar Pilar features a daily changing menu of Italian and Spanish inspired small plates and a small, yet smart wine list, with most wines by the glass under $7.

The menu features items such as chorizo with white beans, eggplant ratatouille, potatoes sauteed in olive oil and garlic with a Moroccan paprika ailoi, seared tuna with pea shoots, and beet carpaccio with goat cheese, mint and pine nuts.

Wines at Bar Pilar are generally on the esoteric side, focusing on small, boutique Italian, French and Spanish wines, with a few domestic options and even selections from Greece and Slovenia.

Of particular interest were the Anselmi Garganega, an aromatic white with notes of white peach, citrus and rose petal; the 1+1=3 Xarel-lo, a fantastic, crisp and refreshing white made from one of the native Spanish Cava grapes; and the La Place Tannat from Southwestern France, a robust red with notes of earth, cedar and dried red fruits.

If the menu and wine list alone aren't enough to persuade a visit, certainly the photo booth at the rear of the restaurant is worth a peek--especially after a few glasses of vino.

Bar Pilar
1833 14th Street, NW
Washington, DC
202.265.1751

Images from www.barpilar.com

A Tale of Two Sushis

2006-07-30T21:53:00.000-04:00

It has been a while since I have posted on any restaurants in the DC area. A couple recent experiences seem to warrant mention: a good one and a not so good one.

Lately, I've been in sushi mode. But not just boring 'ol California rolls, rather the more exotic rolls, such as tuna tempura roll with spicy sauce or crunchy tuna roll. These types of rolls, while not overly authentic Japanese sushi, are much the rage in many restaurant-cum-sushi bars.

Case in point: Oya Restaurant & Lounge on 9th Street, NW and Maté on K Street at the Georgetown waterfront. Both spots have extensive sushi menus, including sashimi, nigiri, maki, and the more exotic maki as mentioned above.

After Signatures on Pennsylvania Avenue shut its doors, Chef Tu Soe packed up and moved onto Oya, taking with him an innovative array of sushi rolls, including a spicy vege roll with carrot, apple and yellow pepper and the crispy tuna roll with tuna, scallions, cucumber and crispy potato flakes.

One of my favorites is the tuna tempura roll: lightly breaded in tempura batter and flash fried, accompanied by a spicy seven pepper sauce. The hearts of palm roll is equally as good and comes with avocado and a sweet soy sauce. The sushi at Oya is definitely some of the best and most interesting in DC.

I am not alone in this opinion as I hear quite a buzz among other foodies when discussing the subject. In fact, a friend of mine who works for Indebleu seems obsessed with the sushi at Oya. I suppose it doesn't hurt that Oya offers a sushi happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 pm-8 pm in the lounge area. Nothing beats $5 sushi rolls!

My 'not so much' experience took place this evening at Maté in Georgetown. Upon entering the chic space, I asked our server if she had any Maté on the menu. I figured a restaurant with the name Maté would most likely serve the South American specialty. She had no idea that Maté is a drink. I would think that if a restaurant is named after a popular South America tea, then the staff should probably at least know what it is, even if it is not on the menu. In fact, I can't quite figure out why the restaurant is called Maté, other than their paltry selection of South American wines. Sure the menu combines latin flavors with sushi...but Malbec with sushi? Not so much.

I let my initial impressions slide and decided to try some of the exotic maki offerings. The Buenos Aires roll sounded good: jumbo lump crab with torched salmon and tempura crunch with a drizzle of wasabi mayo. The crab was not jumbo lump and seemed as if it had seen better days. Yes, it is Sunday, but....

The sweet & spicy roll sounded interesting as well--spicy tuna with sweet plantains. I was not really digging the sweet banana flavors along with the spicy tuna. Same for the tamalito roll: yellowtail with jalapeño, avocado, plantains & corn masa wrapped in a daikon radish skin. This roll wouldn't be bad if the corn masa were removed. I guess I just can't get into the latin flavors fused with sushi.

To Maté's credit, the volcano roll was quite good: shrimp tempura topped with a seared spicy crab salad.

Oya Retaurant & Lounge
777 9th Street, NW
202.393.1400

Maté
3101 K Street, NW
202.333.2006

Random Thoughts

2006-07-26T23:21:00.000-04:00

I don't know what got into me over the past few days. I've been opening various bottles for tasting in an uncontrolled fashion--taste a few glasses and then back in the fridge it goes. Part of the craze has been fueled by a newly found product designed to stop open bottles of wine from oxidizing--VineyardFresh. Just a quick puff of the Argon/Nitrogen gas into the bottle and its safe for a few weeks from going sour. What a great concept! I can open 5-6 bottles at once and taste a glass or two and then save it for a later date.

So here is a run down of what's currently open in the fridge. Anyone care to taste?

Dutch Henry Winery Zinfandel 1999, Napa Valley, California--I opened this to go with a beef roast last week. Was a little concerned it may have been past its peak because of its age, but was showing nicely, although a little on the softer side. Notes of spice, black cherry, raspberry. Soft tannins. Medium body. Lingering black cherry finish. Drink it NOW.

Widmer Brickstone Cellars Pinot Noir 'Soft Press Vintage' 2003, Finger Lakes, New York--Not so much is all I can say for this one. Had a wonderful nose of strawberry and raspberry. Green, harsh and unripe tannins. Astringent. Unpleasant aftertaste. Save your money.

Cousino Macul Sauvignon Gris 2004, Maipo Valley, Chile--Yes I do like this wine a lot as I've posted on it before. I believe the 2004 vintage is no longer available and the 2006 should be coming into retail shops shortly. Amazing aromas of orange blossom and nectarine. Citrus fruit notes. Zesty. Moderate acidity. Medium body. Lingering finish.

Veramonte Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Casablanca Valley, Chile--Another tasty treat from Chile. Heavenly tropical fruit aromas, herbaceous notes. Lemon citrus. Crisp and clean. Racy acidity. Lingering finish.

VineyardFresh image courtesy of VineyardFresh.com
Widmer image courtesy of widmerwine.com

Cheap Cheap!

2006-07-25T00:10:00.000-04:00

Nothing beats a good bottle of wine. And nothing beats a CHEAP bottle of good wine.

Two recent finds to seek out:

Du Peloux Ugni Blanc/Viognier 2004, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse, France--The south of France is a bargain hunters dream when it comes to quaffable, inexpensive wines. This little number was found at Trader Joe's for a whopping 5.99! Notes of ripe pear, melon, apricot, with a touch of honeysuckle and white flower. Medium body. A little oily. Short finish.

Yasa 'Old Vines' Macabeo 2005, Calatayud, Spain--Made from knotty 50 year-old vines in Spain's Catalonia region. Macabeo is one of the grapes used to make Cava and also widely used in white Rioja (where it is known as Viura). On its own, it makes a fresh, clean white wine perfect for quaffing on 90 degree, 100% humidity days. Picked this one up at the Wine Specialist for 7.99! Notes of green apple, tropical fruits and citrus fruits. Fresh. Crisp. Zingy. Slightly nutty. Lingering finish.

Photo of old Macebeo vines courtesy of www.kysela.com

Vineyards of South America 2006-2007 Calendar

2006-07-17T21:07:00.001-04:00

Hot off the presses--a 16 month photo calendar of various vineyards I have visited throughout Chile, Argentina, Uruguay and Brazil. Beautiful, 4-color images of vineyards set against the majestic Andes Mountains and more. Calendar starts with September 2006 and goes through December 2007. Get your copy today!

Fresh for Summer

2006-06-18T23:02:00.000-04:00

Two great wines to pick up for summer sipping:

2003 Boordy Vineyards Icons of Maryland Seyval-Vidal-Chardonnay, Hydes, Maryland--intense aromas of melon, lemon peel, pear, green apple, medium body, fresh, clean finish. Serve with Chesapeake Bay seafood specialties, including Maryland Blue Crabs or Rockfish.

NV L. Tramier et Fils 'Roncier' (Pinot Noir), Bugundy, France--notes of cherry, red fruits, spice, flavors of black cherry, mushrooms and forest floor. Very light body, light to medium tannins. A killer bargain at around $10 a bottle. Described by the importer as 'declassified' red Burgundy, hence the non-vintage and vin de table wine classification. Serve slightly chilled for summer. A great every-day red wine.

Roncier label from www.whimports.com

NOLA: Alive & Kicking

2006-06-14T22:20:00.000-04:00

Just back from a biz trip to the BIG EASY (aka New Orleans). Indeed some of the shops and restaurants are still closed, especially on Canal Street, yet most of the French Quarter spots are up and running and waiting for your visit.

A spot not to miss: NOLA Restaurant from the infamous Emeril Lagasse. NOLA is a fun and funky spot, just a few blocks off Bourbon Street, where Lagasse serves up fresh takes on New Orleans Creole and Acadian Cajun cuisine. The two-level spot features exposed brick-walls and an informal atmosphere with serious cuisine.

My advice: try the Chef's Tasting, which features a four-course menu of the Chef's daily specials with an optional wine pairing. This was my second experience with the Chef's Tasting and wine pairings and both visits were outstanding.

The highlights of the most recent meal included:

Salad

Smoked pork and aged Cheddar quesadilla with baby spinach, grilled tomato, shaved red onions and toasted coriander v

Wine: 2005 Kilikanoon Riesling 'Mort's Block' Watervale, Clare Valley, Australia--crisp and clean, with notes of pear, apple, hint of peach, dry, piercing acidity

Appetizer

Flash fried calamari with San Marzano tomato sauce, Kalamata olives, prosciutto and Parmesan cheese

Wine: 2004 La Mozza Tocai Friulano 'Bastianch', Colli Orientali del Friuli, Italy--fresh and clean, with notes of orange blossom, pear, hint of lemon citrus. Crisp finish.

Entrée

Braised beef short ribs with grilled asparagus, jasmine rice, hazelnuts, ginger-plume glaze and natural jus

Wine: 2003 Monticelli Brothers 'Mario' Sangiovese, Napa, California--notes of sweet cherry, spice, toasted oak, a dash of vanilla, smooth, silky, moderate tannins.

Dessert

Bittersweet chocolate-hazelnut torte with Grand Marnier crème Anglaise, candided hanzelnuts and fresh berries

Wine: 2003 Gutierrez de la Vega Casta Diva 'Cosecha Miel', Alicante, Spain--rich and honeyed, with notes of peach, candied fruits, honey, silky texture.

NOLA Restaurant
534 St. Louis Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504.522.6652

Restaurant interior image from www.emerils.com

There's Gold in Dem There Hills

2006-06-01T01:13:00.000-04:00

Liquid gold, I say. Tucked away in the Northeast Georgia Mountains...ok, let's call them hills, I struck gold this past weekend. Voluptuous, ripe and lively liquid gold in the form they call Frogtown down yonder.

Spent the past long weekend down in Hotlanta and sheesh was it hot. Happened to find my way with some friends up into the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains at a little place called Frogtown Cellars about an hour from Atlanta. What started as a trek into the hills to go tubing down a lazy river turned into an afternoon of wine sampling.

Frogtown is a 57 acre family-owned wine estate located in Dahlonega, Georgia and grows a variety of grapes ranging from Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne, Rousanne, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tannat, Sangiovese, Touriga Nacional, and Norton.

The location and view are simply spectacular: the winery is set atop a hill overlooking vineyards with rolling hills in the distance. The perfect spot for sipping on a 95 degree day.

I was most impressed with their white wine offerings, specifically the Rhone Valley varietals. Could the soil and climate of Northeast Georgia be similar to those of the Rhone in France? Hmmmmmm.......

2003 Marsanne--My favorite of the bunch. Rich and highly perfumed with ripe pear, honeysuckle and almond notes. Full bodied. Lingering almond finish.

2003 Rousanne--Notes of green apple, honeysuckle, pear, a hint of nuts. Full bodied.

2004 Viognier--Heady with notes of peach, honeysuckle, a hint of passion fruit. Voluptuous texture.

These wines tickled my fancy to such an extent, I had a mixed case shipped home. Stop by sometime for a first hand sampling.

Frogtown Cellars
3300 Damascus Church Road
Dahlonega, GA
706.865.0687

Wine label image from www.frogtownwine.com

Osoyoos What? Wine of the Week

2006-05-14T23:33:00.000-04:00

So what do we think of when someone mentions Canada? Cold weather? Snow? Maple Leaves? Hockey? That silly Canadian 'eh' thrown in during conversation? Who thinks of wine? Well...maybe icewine, especially those tasty little numbers that pop out of the Niagara Peninsula. But have you ever had a Canadian red wine?

Better run out and grab this one folks: The 2001 Osoyoos Larose Grand Vin. A killer blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The wine is a partnership between the Canadian wine giant Vincor and the French company, Groupe Taillan, which owns the Bordeaux Château Gruaud Larose.

The wine hails from the Osoyoos region in the south of British Columbia's Okanagan Valley, very close to the U.S. border with Washington state. The area is pratically a desert and is earning a name for producing rich, complex red wines. The Osoyoos Larose is an example.

This wine is no joke: full of big, rich, sweet black fruits (think plum, blackberry, a hint of cherry), vanilla spice and a hint of chocolate. Complex, yet balanced, with silky tannins and a medium finish. Comparable to some of the big California Mertiage blends but half the price, coming in at roughly $35 a bottle.

Bottle image courtesy of www.northwest-wine.com

Wine of the Week

2006-05-07T22:25:00.000-04:00

Viva Virginia! Just tasted an amazing Virginia Viognier this week that merits mention: The 2005 White Hall Vineyards Viognier. What a STUNNING wine. Notes of intoxicating tropical fruit, honeysuckle, white peach, and mango. Balanced acidity and medium body. Lingering finish. Served chilled on your patio.

Bottle image courtesy of White Hall Vineyards

The Infamous Turley 'White Coat'

2006-04-30T15:57:00.000-04:00

So, you know Turley Wine Cellars, right? That cult California wine producer whose wines are hard to find and often fetch extraordinary prices? As luck would have it, Chiefwino happened upon a fabulous wine bar in San Franscisco (Nectar Wine Lounge) last September, that not only sells wine on-premise, but also off-premise and has a number of Turley wines on their menu. I opted to bring home a few bottles, including the 'White Coat,' which I uncorked last night. Here is the skinny:

2003 Turley 'White Coat', San Luis Obispo County, California--Trio of white Rhône varieties (Marsanne, Viognier, Rousanne). Loads of intense tropical fruit/honeysuckle aromas, golden delicious apples, a hint of nuts. Full bodied and viscous. Noticeable alcohol--quite hot on the finish. Overall, not bad, but not worth what I paid, which was in the 50-60 dollar range. I think I would rather opt for a White Cotes du Rhône blend of the same varieties for more fruit, acidity and less alcohol---and a 1/4 of the price.

Wine of the Week

2006-04-22T17:07:00.000-04:00

Spring has sprung. Time to dust off the sandals and shorts and hoof it down to the wine shop for a bottle of crisp white wine. When you arrive, this one is a sure bet for opulent fruit flavors and refreshing acidity.

2004 Hedges Cellars 'CMS' Chardonnay/Marsanne/Sauvignon Blanc--intense floral aromas with a hint of citrus fruit and banana. Crunchy gooseberries, grapefruit and ripe pear on the palate. Crisp, racing acidity. Medium body. Lingering finish. Beautiful integration of the three grape varieties. A fine foil for seafood, light hors d'oeuvres, and goat cheese. Average retail: $12

Bottle image courtesy of Hedges Cellars

Wines of the Week

2006-04-16T12:47:00.000-04:00

Thought I would post a duo of wines for this week given my absence in posting recently. Just discovered two fantastic, easy drinking reds from our friends Down Under.

2004 Te Kairanga Pinot Noir, Martinborough, New Zealand--sort of a cross between the juicy New World style and the earthy Burgundian style of Pinot. Notes of sweet cherry, ripe plum and wild strawberry. Hint of cinnamon and vanilla. Light body, soft tannins. Pairs nicely with light preparations of goose, duck or pork. Average retail: $20

2004 Marquis Phillips Shiraz, Southeastern Australia--a friend of mine claims this is one of the best Aussie Shirazs he has tasted for the price..Roughly $18 retail. Loads of rich black raspberry and plum notes. Smooth, silky and full on the palate with a hint of spice. Medium tannins. Pair with a nice thick slab of venison, kangaroo, ostrich or wild boar.

Label images courtesy of the respective vineyards

Grapes with Apes at the Zoo

2006-04-14T01:27:00.000-04:00

Raise your glass to a fun and festive wine tasting event hosted by the National Zoo next week on Friday, April 21. The first annual Grapes with Apes will feature wine sampling from Virginia and Maryland wineries and tasty snacks from area restaurants, live music, wine seminars and more.

Plus, you can see Chiefwino live as I will be there in the flesh pouring wine with my friends from Oya Restaurant and Lounge, The Henry Wine Group and The Country Vintner. I promise we will be pouring some fun wines--Washington State, Spain and even New Mexico.

Check the Friends of the National Zoo website for info on tickets!

Think Pink Part Deux: Wine of the Week

2006-03-20T06:44:00.000-05:00

Sorry for the lack of creativity in this week's post as we yet again discuss some pink wine. I have been tasting oodles of the stuff lately as I have been consulting on a restaurant wine list in downtown DC. So here come two more you might want to try:

2004 Trevor Jones Cebo Rosé, Barossa Valley, Australia. This ain't your Mom's White Zin--an intoxicating blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Muscat de Frontignac. Deep crimson red color with luscious aromas of fresh raspberries, spice and cherry,
medium body, and a crisp finish. An ideal match for lamb, pork or amazing on its own.
Average Retail: $15

2004 Neakeas Vega Sindoa Rose, Navarra, Spain. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Garnacha. Intense aromas of ripe strawberries and cherries, spice and raspberries on the palate, crisp finish. Ideal with oily fish such as salmon, as well as simply prepared veal, pork and chicken. Average Retail: $8

Image courtesy of Cellartracker.com

Think Pink-Wine of the Week

2006-03-11T12:09:00.000-05:00

March 11, 2006. 12 noon. Approximately 65 degrees. Sitting on the terrace enjoying a refreshing glass of Sauvion Rose d'Anjou from the Loire Valley. This is an unpretentious wine. Only 9 bucks a bottle. Light salmon color. Sweet cherry and strawberry aromas. Zingy and crisp on the palate with strawberry, citrus fruit, and a clean, lingering finish. Slightly off-dry, but no where near a soda-pop-like White Zin from Cali. A perfect hurry-up-and-get-here spring apéritif.

Philly is More Fun When You Sleep Over...

2006-03-10T07:54:00.000-05:00

Yes, indeed, Philly is more fun when you sleep over--because after you roll out of bed, head down to South Philly and enjoy one of the area's best weekend Brunches at Beau Monde. Located one block south of South Street, at the corner of 6th and Bainbridge, Beau Monde is a crêpe lovers dream.

Beau Monde uses imported flat round, cast-iron crêpe griddles to create a lavish array of savory entrée and dessert style crêpes. Fillings range from simple to complex; tomato with sauteed onions, garlic and basil to the rich Coq a Vin with Swiss cheese and herb butter. I opt to try one of the brunch specials: scrambled eggs with roasted Poblano peppers, tomatoes, Swiss cheese, avocado corn salsa & caramelized tomato sauce. Absolutely amazing! Not to mention the French onion soup was among one of the best I have tasted in any establishment. After indulging on brunch, a dessert crêpe seemed a good idea--as if I needed it. A sweet caramel and white cholocate sauce filled crêpe was exactly what was needed to finish off a lazy Saturday morning in the city of Brotherly Love.

Crêperie Beau Monde
624 South 6th Street
Philadelphia, PA
215.592.0656

Photo courtesy of www.creperie-beaumonde.com

Chiefwino...LIVE!

2006-03-06T23:39:00.000-05:00

Yes, it's true. You can see Chiefwino live in the flesh on Tuesday, March 21, 2006 at La Taspa Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant in Clarendon (Arlington, VA). I will be serving up the "Taste of Spring" Wine Dinner--a 7 course tapas sampling paired with Spanish wines. This is the first in a series of festive and fun wine dinners focusing on Spanish tapas and wine. We will discuss wine tasting basics, food pairing concepts and a enjoy nice selection of Spanish wines paired with the evening's cuisine.

Take a peek at the menu:

F I R S T C O U R S E
Jamon Serrano and Mixed Olives
Traditional Spanish cured Serrano ham with marinated mixed olives
Fino Tio Pepe

S E C O N D C O U R S E
Ensalada de Tomate y Queso de Cabra
Goat cheese and tomato salad with vinaigrette dressing
Valdelainos, 2004, Rueda

T H I R D C O U R S E
Gambas al Ajillo
Shrimp sautéed in olive oil, garlic, and guindilla peppers
Nora, 2004, Rias Baixas

F O U R T H C O U R S E
Filetitos de Solomillo y Esparragos
Grilled pork tenderloin with sautéed peppers and a grilled asparagus spear
1+1=3 Rose, 2004, Penedes

F I F T H C O U R S E
Buey al Jerez
Grilled, marinated flank steak with sautéed mushrooms
Fuente Espina, 2003, Ribera del Duero

S I X T H C O U R S E
Chorizo al Parrilla
Grilled spicy Spanish sausage
Beryna, 2003, Alicante

D E S S E R T
Crema Catalana
Catalan custard cream with cherries
Espumoso de Moscatel Flare

Hurry! Space is limited and seats are selling quickly!

La Tasca Spanish Tapas Bar & Restaurant
2900 Wilson Blvd--Clarendon
Arlington, Virginia
703.812.9120

Image from latascausa.com

Wine of the Week Returns...

2006-03-05T20:51:00.000-05:00

It's been a while since I have made a weekly recommendation on something for you all to hustle out to the wine shop like a herd of elephants and snatch up. My apologies. This week, I have decided to send you out on a little white wine hunt for Noon Gun from Flagstone Winery.

What a bargain! Only $7.99 at the Wine Specialist at New Hampshire and M Streets, NW in downtown Washington, DC.

This is a GREAT everyday drinking wine. Loads of vivid fruit...peach, nectarine, lemon, orange and a touch of green grass. Crisp acidity. A fine pairing for tomatoes drizzled in olive oil and asparagus. From the Western Cape of South Africa. A blend of Weisser Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Semillon.

Photo courtesy of flagstonewines.com

Geeks Rejoice!

2006-03-01T23:50:00.000-05:00

I think everyone knows by now that I am a wine geek. I get excited over weird wines-the weirder, the BETTER. I am constantly picking up bottles from strange places. Remember that Thai wine I mentioned sometime last summer? Or how about the wine from Georgia or Louisiana? Michigan, anyone?

For fun, I thought I would tote a few of the odd-balls over to dinner with Jenni McCloud from Chrysalis Vineyards and see what the wine goddess had to say about my unusual wines.

Here is the report:

2003 Siam Winery Malaga Blanc from Thailand--interesting to say the least. Touch of wet cardboard on the nose, fresh herbal notes, and lemongrass (anyone for Thai food?). Bone dry, crisp acidity with a hint of green apples. We were put off by this wine at first due to its overwhelming cardboard scent, which dissipated after sometime. Would be an interesting match to....Thai food of course, but also light preparations of seafood.

2003 Tabor Hill Chardonel from Michigan--would you like some oak with your wine today, sir? Notes of toasted oak, butter, and apple. Crisp acid. Somewhat dull on the palate. Past its peak or just not well made? Chardonel is a cross between Seyval Blanc (another hybrid grape) and Chardonnay, designed for cold climate wine growing areas. Tabor Hill is a nice spot to visit if you are ever in Southwestern Michigan since they have a dining room that over looks the vines.

2000 J. Carrau Pujol from Uruguay--blend of Tannat, Cab Sauv and Cab Franc. Mmmmmmmmmmmmm. Tasty! Too bad this wine isn't widely available in the states. I picked this one up in the SAQ wine shop up in Montreal at some point. Notes of black cherry, plum and a hint of wet cardboard...Did we get the bottle too close to the Thai wine? Smooth on the palate with light tannin. Short finish.

2001 Pontchartrain Vineyards "Rouge Militaire" Cynthiana from Louisiana--also know as Norton here in Virginia and Missouri. Picked this one up last summer in New Orleans...BEFORE the hurricane. From the news on their site, it seems most of the vineyard survived and harvest had already taken place. Faint red fruit notes on the nose with a hint of oxidation. Also, an issue with volatile acidity (vinegar and nail polish remover scent found in some wines...click the link to read about it). Very light body, almost no tannin. Not very tasty and definitely not of the quality of the Chrysalis Vineyards Norton wines.

2001 "AN" Anima Negra from the island of Mallorca, Spain--here's a weird one that I brought back from my recent trip to Barcelona. This wine is made from a nearly forgotten grape native to Mallorca, Callet. The best wine of the bunch for this tasting experiment. Notes of plum, spice, and mocha on the nose. Rich and silky on the palate with mild tannins and a medium length. Perfect with the grilled venison tenderloin we dined on during the evening.

Memories of Brazil

2006-02-24T07:44:00.000-05:00

It was a lazy Saturday afternoon and I awoke around 1 pm. Winter just has that affect on you sometimes. I brew up a fresh pot of java; decided to dig into my supply of souvenir java acquired in Porto Alegre, Brazil last year. I swear that stuff has sugar added prior to brewing. Add some milk and settle in reading the morning news.

Two hours later, the phone buzzes. "Have you eaten?" asked Shan. "No, not yet. Why? What do you have in mind? Bistro d'Oc?" I ask. "Hmmmm. Was thinking something big. Maybe Fogo de Chão?" he says. Flashbacks of succulent meat heaped onto a plate race through my mind; waiters dressed in traditional Gaucho garb who don't stop serving you until you've turned the hunger indicator card to red..."PLEASE STOP." Fogo it is and why the heck not? I love a good Brazilian meat fest--especially with a good red wine.

4:30 pm. We arrive. Step into the lobby, prepared to be the only table in the restaurant as its so early for dinner on a Saturday downtown. To my surprise, the place is literally PACKED. I guess word has gotten out that Fogo is a good spot to feed a meat craving. After being seated, we take on the salad bar. Danger--the salad bar is so good, one might get full on veggies and antipasti. We opt to sample a number of items, but save room for the main event.

Time to choose wine. Fogo has a very well-rounded list, focusing on South America and California. I was very impressed to see a selection of Brazilian wines from Miolo, a spot I visited last year in the Vale dos Vinhedos in Southern Brazil. Most are available only by the bottle, except the Pinot Noir, which is on the glass list. We both go for a glass of the Pinot, which wasn't exactly the highlight of the visit. It was a bit green, thin, and over-oaked. To the surprise of many, Brazil has quite a robust wine industry. Shall save that for another post.

And now, the main event: the MEAT. 15 different cuts: pork, chicken, lamb and beef served table-side in a continuous fashion until you flip the card on the table from green to red, indicating you've had enough. Along with the meat comes an assortment of sides: crispy polenta, pão de queijo (Brazilian cheese bread), garlic mashed potatoes, and fried bananas. Three notable meats to sample: the bacon wrapped chicken breast, parmesan crusted pork and the Picanha, which is a sirloin cut. All meats are fire-roasted and seasoned perfectly with garlic and sea salt. The experience brought back memories of my visit to Porto Alegre and Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil--except Fogo is better than the churrascarias I happened upon last year.

After roughly 2 hours, Shan and I were ready to be wheeled out. Good thing neither of us had eaten prior to our Fogo visit. We hobbled back to his place, cracked open a bottle of Shiraz and called it a night.

Fogo de Chão has multiple locations in the U.S. and 4 locations in Brazil.

Fogo de Chão
1101 Pennsylvania Ave, NW
Washington, DC
(202) 347-4668

Pictures courtesy of Fogo de Chão

Tasting in the Blue Ridge

2006-02-23T09:00:00.000-05:00

Recently had the opportunity to visit Veramar Vineyard, one of the area's newer wineries. Located a little over an hour from DC in Berryville, Virginia, Veramar opened to the public in 2001 and produces a variety of premium Virginia wines from both vinifera and hybrid grapes. The winery is set in a picture perfect valley with rolling hills on the west side of the Blue Ridge.

My tourguide for the excursion was Jenni McCloud, owner of Chrysalis Vineyards. We set out from Chrysalis late one Saturday afternoon, twisting and turning through the Northern Virginia countryside on narrow back country roads. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Della Bogaty, co-owner of Veramar.

Della led us through a tasting of the current offerings:

2004 Seyval Blanc--Pale yellow/green color with notes of lime, lemon and grapefruit. Crisp, racing acidity. Suggested pairing from the winery: veal scallopini with lime-walnut sauce.

2004 Tres Blanc--blend of Chardonnay, Riesling, and Vidal. Notes of ripe peach and lime. Suggested pairing from the winery: oriental shredded chicken or seafood dishes.

2004 Cabernet Franc--notes of sweet black fruit, ripe raspberries, spice, and slight herbal aromas. Round and full on the palate with soft tannins. Suggested pairing from the winery: NY strip steak with chipotle sauce.

2003 Cabernet Franc--a tough year for Virginia wines with a cool, wet summer. Notes of toasted oak, pepper, gun powder. On the palate, raspberries and blackberries. Light tannins and a smooth finish.

2004 Rooster Red--Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. Notes of blackberry, black cherry, a touch of earth and spice. Light and refreshing on the palate. Would be great served slightly chilled. Suggested winery pairing: cheese tortellini topped with Feta cheese.

2004 D'Ora--Made from late-harvested Vidal grapes in a desert style. Notes of sweet peach, pineapple and floral aromas. Rich and full on the palate. Suggested pairing from the winery: Asian foods or chocolate fondue.

Aside from the quaint tasting room, Veramar has a magnificent back patio, perfect for sipping a glass of wine and staring off into the valley.

Veramar Vineyard
905 Quarry Road
Berryville, Virginia
540-955-5510

Jean Leon: A True Hollywood Story

2006-02-20T23:47:00.000-05:00

The second vineyard visited during my jaunt through the Penedès was Jean Leon. Unlike Parés Baltà, the Jean Leon Winery was born in the 20th-century (1963 to be exact) and became a pioneer in changing the face of wine produced in the Penedès.

The Jean Leon story is one that was made in Hollywood. Travelling as a stowaway in a merchant vessel, young Ceferino Carrión (Jean Leon) made his way to New York City and later to Los Angeles in the 1940s. He found work as a waiter at Villa Capri, a typical haunt for young Hollywood stars. It was here that he met the likes of Judy Garland, Grace Kelly and most importantly, James Dean, who would later enter into a partnership with Jean Leon to open one of Hollywood's most luxurious restaurants, La Scala, in 1956.

La Scala was a Beverly Hills landmark, frequented by actors, famous directors and influential politicians. With all this fame, one thing was still lacking for Jean Leon: finding the "perfect wine" to suit his taste to be served at the tables of his dearest friends. This led him to embark on a journey around the world to find the best land suitable for growing grapes and making wine. The journey returned him to his native Spain, to the heart of Catalonia, where he purchased 150 acres and set up a winery using not the native grapes of the region, but noble French varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnday).

The visitor center at Jean Leon presents a very informative video of his life and accomplishments and has on display numerous pieces of Hollywood memorabilia from the days of La Scala. Today, the winery is part of the Miguel Torres empire and continues to produce highly regarded wines.

Here are highlights from the tasting:

2003 Chardonnay-pale gold with greenish tinge, notes of vanilla, butterscotch and green apple, round and full on the palate, with a lingering finish.

2003 Merlot-notes of spice and oak aging, plum, and raspberry. Full on the palate with jammy fruits and spice, moderate tannins. Seems a bit over oaked.

1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva-beautiful notes of cassis, spice and dark fruit. Good structure with a velvety mouthfeel and soft tannins. Seems a bit over oaked.

1997 Cabernet Sauvignon Gran Reserva-harmonious notes of wet earth, wood, and dried fruits. Smooth and silky on the palate with soft tannins. So good, I brought a bottle home.

The Penedès: Not just for Cava

2006-02-04T18:43:00.000-05:00

South of Barcelona, the Penedès is known for producing Spain's famous dry sparkling wine, Cava, from the native grapes Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel-lo. The area is also a hot bed for experimentation and home to the likes of Miguel Torres and Jean Leon, who experimentedd with international varietals and mondern vinification techniques.

Lately, Spainish wines seem to be all the rage. So does the food, with the likes of José Andrés making waves in the food press here in the states. I think my tour guide, Paddy Manion, of El Moli Tours said it best during a recent tour of the Penedès when he stated "Spain has been discovered, forgotten, rediscovered, forgotten, rediscovered..." It looks like Spain has been rediscovered again.

And what a great time for rediscovery. The wines of Spain have taken a new turn, becoming, shall we say, more in-line with what the international palate demands. This is no more evident than in the Penedès, where the old world and new world coexist, churning out traditional styled wines along with fruit-forward modern choices.

On a recent visit to the Penedès, I visted two wineries: Parés Baltà and Jean Leon. Both producers are on the cutting edge of what the international palate craves: fruit forward, juicy, easy to stomach wines made from a variety of well-known grape varieties.

Parés Baltà, which has been family-owned and operated for over two centuries, is located a short drive from the town of Villafranca del Penedès and offers visitors a mind-boggling portfolio of wines. My visit included not only a tasting of their higher end wines, but also a bottom to top view of their vineyards and viticultural practices. We began on the valley floor and worked our way up to the peak of the valley, where the vines struggle to survive in the rocky soil.

The tasting consisted of six of their top wines:

Cuveé de Carol Cava--described by the producer as "liquid gold" and I must concur. 100% Chardonnay, barrel fermented and aged in oak for 7 months. Notes of green apple, honey, toasted oak. Well-balanced and full of crisp acid. One of the best Cavas I have tasted.

Hisenda Miret 2003 (Garnatxa or Garnacha)--notes of strawberries, raspberries, and spicy oak. Ripe, soft tannins.

Mas Irene 1999--74% Merlot, 16% Cab Franc. Aged 12 months in Allier oak. Notes of dried fruits, plum, and spice. Smooth and silky on the palate. Light tannins.

Absis 2001--blend of Tempranillo, Cab Sauv, Merlot, Cab Franc. Notes of spice, cassis, plum and black raspberry. Well-structured and full bodied.

Gratavinum GV5 Priorato 2003--a big wine. Notes of sweet, ripe fruit, strawberries, plum and spice. Silky, smooth tannins.

Dominio Cusiné 1790 1996 vintage--wow. amazing. incredible. A wine only made in exceptional years. Crafted from old vine fruit. Only 5790 bottles produced. Notes of earth, leather, ripe red fruits, and burnt figs. Beautifully integrated fruit and tannin. A stellar wine. 232 euros a bottle.

I look forward to finding the Parés Baltà wines on U.S. store shelves sometime in the near future. At the time of my visit, the winery was seeking representation in the U.S.

A Flight of Bubbly

2006-01-31T00:00:00.000-05:00

Last week I experienced two of life's great pleasures: Yannick Cam's Le Paradou and a flight of the Cuvée des Moines Champagnes from Besserat de Bellefon. For a limited time, Chef Cam is offering the Bellefon flight, which upon request is paired with three amuse bouche.

First up: The Bellefon Brut NV paired with Chef's signature amuse, which he created while at Le Pavillon, the scallop ragout egg.

The wine: delicate floral and yeast aromas. Full and rich on the palate with notes of hazlenut, apple and pears. Crisp, racy acidity. Lingering hazelnut finish.

The amuse: scallop ragout, with white corn, lobster juice and caviar atop. Served in a brown eggshell.

Number two: Blanc de Blancs paired with seared tuna

The wine: sweet floral aromas with a hint of citrus and hazlenut. Honeyed notes on the palate and a light, refreshing texture. Short finish.

The amuse: seared tuna on a bed of red onions, coriander shoots and blood orange sauce.

Last, but not least: Bellefon Rosé NV paired with foie gras atop dried plum pudding

The wine: notes of fresh strawberries and almond. Fleshy and delicate on the palate with a persistant finish.

The amuse: foie gras atop dried plum pudding in a vin de paille reduction(vin de paille is a wine from the Jura region of France made from dried grapes).

If you enjoy fine french cuisine and fine Champagne, a visit to Le Paradou for this special flight and pairing is a must.

Le Paradou
678 Indiana Avenue, NW
Washington, DC
Reservations: 202.347.6780

Le Paradou pictures courtesy of www.leparadou.net; Bellefon bottle courtesy of www.bellefon.com

Chateau de Texas

2006-01-15T21:53:00.000-05:00

Yet another post on wine from Texas.

Can you believe it?

This story takes us back to a recent business trip of mine to the Dallas/Fort Worth area. Practically next to the DFW Airport is a charming vineyard and winery, known as Delaney Vineyards. Delaney has been styled after an 18th-century French chateau and features a grand barrel room with vaulted ceilings.

Delaney produces a number of wines from estate grown fruit and fruit purchased from other producers around Texas. One of the more interesting wines is the Texas Champagne Brut (NV), which has won eight international awards. I was not able to taste this during my visit, but the staff insisted it was amazing. Stay tuned for my report since I lugged a bottle home on the flight.

(By the way, Champagne is NOT Champagne unless it is produced in the Champagne region of France. To my knowledge, U.S. producers are supposed to drop the Champagne term from their labels to appease the French. However, this IS Texas---and you DON'T mess with Texas, right?)

My favorite wine in the tasting was the 2002 Sauvignon Blanc, which was chock-full of citrus and toasted oak, followed by crisp acid and a lingering finish. It was worthy of being lugged home on the flight for sure.

Other wines:

2002 Chardonnay--notes of sweet fruit, banana, citrus

2003 Merlot--light body, toasted oak, cherry and dark fruit notes

2003 Cynthiana (Norton)--dark fruit notes, very light body. Lacked the structure and fruit of Norton wines from Missouri and Virginia

2002 Three Daughters (blend of Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon)--blackberry and pepper notes. Slight residual sugar. I bet my Granny would like this one.

Overall, Delaney makes a fun side trip when venturing out in the DFW Metroplex since it is close to historic Grapevine (with more wineries and tasting rooms) and the infamous Grapevine Mills shopping mall.

2000 Champagne Blvd.
Grapevine, Texas
817-481-5668

'Tis the Season for Bubbly

2005-12-25T16:26:00.000-05:00

Happy Holidays! 'Tis the season when people ask me what bubbly to serve at holiday parties and NYE Celebrations. You are all in luck; I just published a feature on bubbly in The Complete Event and Meeting Planner magazine for DC area meeting planners. Hope these suggestions will be useful in choosing the perfect bubbly for your next soiree.

Note: Champagne is a region located 90 miles northeast Paris. The French have strict laws as to what grapes can be grown and where they can be grown within that region. Only sparkling wines from the Champagne region can bear the name "Champagne."

Champagne....In the 17th century, when a Benedictine monk and cellarmaster named Dom Perignon first tasted the fermented drink, he gasped, "I must be drinking stars!" No wonder then that Champagne became synonymous with festivity. The very word conjures visions of wedding receptions, holiday parties and New Year's Eve toasts.

Today, however, it simply costs too much when entertaining a large crowd. The dollar-euro exchange rate often makes matters worse, pushing up the cost of French wine. But don't despair: countless other wine regions produce sparkling wines as good as or better than the Real McCoy. Moreover, since some guests may not appreciate the yeasty flavor and high acidity of authentic Champagne, try one these at your next soiree.

Fox Creek Wines 'Vixen'
McLaren Vale, Australia

Style: Brut
Grapes: Shiraz, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon
Average Retail: $18

A wine to make guests take notice: plump, with rich aromas of ripe blackberries, licorice and spice. Full-bodied and silky on the palate. Serve well-chilled. Perfect for sipping with prosciutto and melon, with hamburgers or simply wonderful on its own.

Robert de Schlumberger Brut 2001
Produced in Vienna, Austria, with grapes grown in Mendoza, Argentina

Style: Brut
Grapes: Chadonnay and Pinot Noir
Average Retail: $20

A unique partnership of Nicolas Catena of Bodega Catena Zapata of Argentina and the House of Schlumberger, the oldest sparkling wine producer in Austria. The fruit is grown, harvested and fermented into still wine at Catena's facility in Argentina, while the secondary bottle fermentation takes place in Vienna.

Notes of biscuit and honey with citrus and nut-like flavors on the palate. Crisp and clean finish. Pair with sushi, lobster bisque, quiche or grilled shrimp.

Pascual Toso Brut
Mendoza, Argentina

Style: Brut
Grapes: Chardonnay
Average Retail: $10

Light and fruity with apple, nut and floral notes. Round and full on the palate with a slight nuttiness on the finish. A perfect match for sushi, mussels, ceviche and shrimp.

Lucien Albrecht Cremant d'Alsace
Alsace, France

Style: Brut
Grapes: Pinot Blanc
Average Retail: $16

A bit Champagne-like in style, with notes of bread, yeast and apples. Crisp, racy finish with a lingering aftertaste. Sublime with smoked salmon, seared scallops and pate.

Cheers!

Labels courtesy of the bubbly producers

Rasika: A Feast for the Senses

2005-12-15T23:26:00.000-05:00

Just when I thought the Penn Quarter Neighborhood in downtown DC was 'hot' enough, another chic spot opens its doors. Rasika, the latest venture from Ashok Bajaj, owner of Bombay Club, 701 Restaurant, The Oval Room, Ardeo and Bardeo, is a feast for the senses.

The name, Rasika, which means flavors in Sanskrit, combines a refined and elegant atmosphere with a menu of modern Indian fare. Bajaj has created a warm and inviting dining room, complete with earth tone colors, an open showcase kitchen, and cozy lounge and bar area. At first glance of the menu, you will notice a variety of small plate dishes, ideal for sharing, along with larger sized entrees. The wine list covers both old and new world selections designed to pair well with the chef's creations.

This evening, I had the opportunity to experience Rasika with two of my clients. The food was ABSOLUTELY amazing. We decided to order a number of small plate items in order to get a feel for the entire menu. My favorite was one suggested by our sever, which happened to be one of the restaurant's signature items. The Palak Chaat--crispy spinach served with sweet yogurt, tamarind and date chutney was absolutely mouth-watering. I was a bit skeptical upon reading the description (crispy spinach???), but was simply blown away, not only by the texture, but the sheer flavor of the dish.

For wine, we sampled a bottle of Tissot Crémant du Jura: a dry, sparkling wine from the French Alps. The Crémant was a perfect match to our menu selections: dry and crisp with mouth-watering acidity, which cleansed the palate after each bite.

Rasika is a must try for your next visit to the Penn Quarter!

Rasika
633 D Street, NW
Washington, DC
202.637.1222

Pictures courtesy of Rasika

Giddy Up! Claret in Texas

2005-12-10T20:05:00.000-05:00

Popped the cork on a bottle of 2003 Becker Vineyards Claret this evening. Quite a shocker!
Amazing aromas of raspberries, blackberries and cassis. Smooth and full on the palate with well integrated oak and tannins. A hint of chocolate on the finish. The 2003 Claret is a blend of the five traditional Bordeaux varieties: Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Matured in French and American Oak.

Becker Vineyards is located in the Texas Hill Country near Fredericksburg.

Gastronomy in Madrid: The Fast

2005-12-10T12:38:00.000-05:00

Ferran Adrià is widely regarded as one of Spain's most influential chefs. His cuisine is marked by startling combinations of texture, temperature and taste. Foodies in the know are familiar with Adrià and his culinary accomplishments and hundreds flock each year to the isolated village of Rosas, on Spain's Costa Brava, north of Barcelona, to experience Adrià's El Bulli. Reservations must be made a year in advance and the restaurant is only open six months of the year--how is that for an example of supply and demand!

In addition to El Bulli, Adrià consults on a number of projects throughout Spain, including a fast food concept with the NH Hotel chain. Fast Good is more or less a gourmet fast food establishment, serving up quality burgers and take-away eats in a setting of plastic designer furniture. The menu features a variety of hot and cold foods, including pre-made sandwiches, paninis, fresh salads, juices, as well as the signature menu item, the burger.

I try my hand at the Good Burger--a gourmet burger set on a toasted bun with aioli and a bed of arugula served with a side of French fries. I also sampled a few of the cold take-away items: a chicken curry mini-sandwich and a bottle of freshly made, tangy gazpacho--served in a plastic juice container.

Who says fast food can't be gourmet? McDonald's eat your heart out!

Fast Good
Calle Padre Damián, 23
(In the NH Eurobuilding Hotel, Metro-Cuzco)
+34 91 343 06 55
Madrid, Spain

Average price from 9 to 18 euros

Gastronomy in Madrid: The Haute

2005-12-09T22:27:00.000-05:00

A visit to Spain is not complete without experiencing nouveau Spanish cuisine. We've heard the names before: Ferran Adria from El Bulli and Sergi Arola of La Broche--two of Spain's most influential chefs. Unfortunately I experienced neither as El Bulli is booked a year in advance and there was no time to experience Arola's La Broche.

But fear not, I DID experience one of Madrid's temples of Gastronomy: El Chaflan. Located north of the main business district in a non-descript 3-star hotel, El Chaflan is headed up by Chef Juan Pablo Felipe, winner of Spain's National Prize for Gastronomy in 2001. The decor is minimalist with subtle oriental flair. But decor aside, the cuisine is center stage here.

I cannot begin to explain the sheer pleasure of my experience at El Chaflan. I opted for the 12-course Chef's tasting with wines paired by the Sommelier, who happened to be from Tokyo. His English was by far the best of any of the other staff at the establishment.

The show began with an amuse bouche of Spanish Cava served with a dash of raspberry liqueur and frothed egg white on top. An incredible and interesting way to begin the journey. The amuse bouche was followed by a small cup of zucchini fries and aioli. Plate after plate, El Chaflan never ceased to amaze.

Finally, the dessert trio arrived. First was a cheese course of five different Spanish cheeses paired with various items: mini-biscuits, quince preserve, nuts and a dab of sweet muscat sauce--an artist's canvas on a plate.

The final taste was probably one of the most interesting of the presentations: a sampling of sweets served with a glass of PX dessert wine--a perfect ending to the show.

El Chaflan
Avenida de Pio XII 34
Madrid, Spain
+34 91 350 6193
Tasting menu with wines: 115 euros

Hamming it up in Madrid

2005-12-08T23:10:00.000-05:00

I honestly feel like I am going to turn into a pig...literally. Walking down the streets of Madrid, one finds it difficult to escape what seems to be Spain's national food: Ham.

Try it sliced on a plate with a drizzle of olive oil or with a sampling of manchego cheese. Sample it on a French roll rubbed with tomatoes or better yet with slices of tomato.

During my short visit to Madrid, I ate ham virtually every day. Breakfast, lunch, and late afternoon snack; but, never for dinner. I needed to save room for other gastronomic treats.

2 of my favorite spots for ham sampling are Don Jamon and Museo de Jamon (literally translated as Museum of Ham). Don Jamon is a friendly tapas bar located on the Gran Via, steps away from most hotels. There is no menu at this joint, just large back-lit photos on the wall of the various tapas available for tasting. I opt for the sampling of Serrano and Ibérico ham, along with manchego cheese and a bocadillo (French roll sandwich) of ham and tomato. Washed down with a cerveza, nothing else hits the spot after a night of clubbing.

Museo de Jamon definitely lives up to its name: a Museum of Ham. Hundreds of cured hams hang from the ceiling of this neighborhood spot, which has several locations in Madrid. Patrons can belly up to the bar for a snack or order cold cuts and cheeses to go from a deli-style counter. Again, I opt for a bocadillo of Serrano ham and tomato plus a Spanish omelet (Tortilla Española) on the side. Tasty!

Inside Museo del Jamon

Don Jamon
Gran Vía, 60
Madrid, Spain

Museo del Jamon
Multiple Locations (photos from C/ Alcalá, 155)
Madrid, Spain

Update: Back from Spain

2005-12-01T20:41:00.000-05:00

Greetings folks--back in the States after a quick jaunt over to Spain for the last week. Much to tell on the food and wine front; however, off to Dallas tomorrow for a biz trip. Will catch up sometime next week. Stay tuned......

David Greggory-An Experience for the Eyes and Mouth

2005-11-15T20:02:00.000-05:00

I must admit that my recent visit to David Greggory was a most memorable experience. Not only was my company an excellent choice, but Chef Greggory Hill's succulent cuisine was a feast for both the eyes and the palate.

The evening began with a few nibbles--Chef's signature trio of deviled eggs and his Asian-fusion take on hot wings. Usually, I am not overly interested in hot wings, but these were absolutely the best I have had yet and extremely messy--but that is to be expected, right?

But the real show-stopper was the main course, or should I say courses. Recently, the menu has been updated with a number of half-sized entrees--somewhat like tapas style, but more elaborate and enough to share with another person. I had also brought in a couple of special wines to pair with the meal: a 1990 Chateau de la Gaffeliere St. Emilion and a 1973 Sauternes from A. Moueix et Fils.

We began with the seared jumbo lump crabcake
with red bell pepper relish, asparagus and mango shallot puree. This was a light and tasty start to our culinary journey.

Next came the braised pork shank with caramelized onions, double-smoked bacon and roasted tomato which was absolutely to die for. The pork was literally falling off the bone--moist and succulent.

Next was Not Quite Mom's Meatloaf stuffed with foie gras mousse served with a roasted tomato herb sauce and whole grain mustard mashed potatoes. True to the name, this is NOT your Mom's meatloaf, but Chef Hill's rich, decadent version and the perfect match for the 1990 Bordeaux.

Lastly, we dug into the grilled lamb loin chop with manchego onion crisps, micro greens and lemon-fig glaze, one of my favorites of the evening. I couldn't help but almost devour all of the lemon-fig glaze.

Finally, it was time for something sweet to match the 1973 Sauternes. This wine was stunning--notes of burnt caramel, butterscotch and nuts. It almost reminded me of a niceMadeiraa or an Oloroso Sherry. We paired the wine with an intense, decadent dessert: The cloud-in-a-pudding, which is a cup of dark chocolate pudding with mascarpone, warm chocolate sauce, whipped cream and cookie crumbles.

I think I will need to diet for the next week prior to my trip to Spain!

David Greggory Restau-Lounge
2030 M Street, NW
Washington, DC
202.872-8700

Photos courtesy of David Greggory

Tonight's Treat

2005-11-12T20:05:00.000-05:00

In preparation for a jaunt to Spain in two weeks, I uncorked a bottle of Spanish vino this evening: The 2000 Abadal Cabernet Franc/Tempranillo. Not too bad for a $13 bottle. 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Tempranillo. Hails from the Pla de Bages region located in the heart of Catalonia, 70 km northeast of Barcelona.

Beautiful aromas of juicy plum and black cherry with a slight floral note followed by spice and toasty oak on the palate. Seems a little on the oaky side for my taste and not enough integration of the oak and fruit. Medium tannins. Quite quaffable in my book.

The Forgotten Champagne Grape

2005-10-25T22:25:00.000-04:00

Had an interesting wine this evening with my Balsamic-glazed New York Strip--the 2002 Domaine Chandon Pinot Meunier Carneros. Usually, Pinot Meunier is used in Champagne and Sparkling Wines--Blanc de Noirs etc. This is the first time I have seen a varietally labeled still wine of this grape and go figure, Domaine Chandon is one of the premier sparkling wine and Champagne producers in the world and has experience with this grape varietal.

The Pinot Meunier reminded me of a sublte Pinot Noir--light in color with notes of ripe plum, raspberry, soy, ginger and a hint of flowers. Very tasty indeed and priced at around $25 a bottle.

A Sweet Spot Called Dolce

2005-10-13T23:02:00.000-04:00

Tonight my friend Nicole and I were out looking for Celebs. We drove past all the typical celeb haunts--The Ivy, News Cafe, Chaya--looking for the Papas (as Nicole refers to the Paparazzi). Alas, no Papas in sight. Maybe Hollywood decided to take a night off? Just my luck.

So, we headed off to a spot where Ashton Kucther is part-owner: Dolce Enoteca & Ristorante on Melrose Ave. We drive around a bit trying to locate the restaurant. Nicole says that many of the hot spots in L.A. have no signing on their facades. I guess this adds to the allure, eh? We eventually arrive and enter into a dimly-lit lounge-cum-restaurant, with black leather seating and a fire-lit bar. Of course, loud 80s music is pumping through the dining room---so typical of L.A.

We belly up to the bar for a few glasses of wine. The wine list is not overly exciting, but the food choices deserve a second look--tapas style portions of Italian favorites: risotto, gnocchi, and prosciutto to name a few. Unfortunately, I was stuffed from a prior restaurant visit earlier in the evening, but next time I jaunt to L.A., Dolce is on my list.

Melrose and Sweetzer, Hollywood
323.852.7174

Photos courtesy of Dolce

L.A. Dining Scene--A "not so must see" show

2005-10-12T19:25:00.000-04:00

Ok. Rarely do I ever rant in cyberspace. But I feel the need to get out a little frustration from my experience with the L.A. dining scene. Sure, L.A. is sexy and full of A-List people going to A-List places, but as a colleague from L.A. pointed out, "restaurants in L.A. are like clothing. People try them on, wear them a few times, and then toss them out and go shopping again."

Case in point: Eurochow in Westwood

The first time I drove past Eurochow, I was amazed at the building's grandeur--a stately, 1929 Mediterranean style landmark building, complete with a large, domed roof. What could this building be, I remarked driving past, on the hunt for a parking space. I peer in the window to find a magnificent, theatrical restaurant space, with a killer bar and lounge space and a soaring 55-foot domed ceiling. It seemed to me a must-see restaurant spot for another night.

My colleague Tiffany called me on a Tuesday night as she was finishing up a Vanity Fair party in Bev Hills. "Dinner?" she asked.
Sure thing! How about Eurochow in Westwood, have you been? "No. We should check it out."

We arrived around 8:45 p.m. Maybe this was a bit late for the crowd in Westwood? We practically had the place to ourselves. We settled in with a few cocktails and made small talk with the Manager.

Eurochow opened in 1999 and is part of the internationally-known Mr. Chow group of restaurants. The menu is a blend of Mr. Chow's two favorite cuisines, Italian and Chinese. We sampled a number of the menu items: the dumplings (which were overly chewy and somewhat cold), the orange chicken (I've had better at Chinese take out joints), and the pork chop (which was actually quite tasty). Overall, the food experience was so-so. Maybe I am spoiled with so many great dining options in DC? Eurochow was probably all the rage when it opened six years ago, but alas, I am going to go shopping like everyone else in L.A.

My biggest annoyance was the service, not just at Eurochow (our server was nowhere to be found at times and actually seemed annoyed we even decided to come in at 9 pm), but at many of the venues I patronized. We have all experienced bad service at some point, but the service in L.A. just seemed to be bad almost everywhere I ate. Rushed servers who did not seem to give a damn whether they refilled your water in a timely fashion and portrayed a general air of annoyance with my presence in their establishment. Maybe my friend Nicole is right--she says quite a good number of restaurant servers are actually budding actors, trying to make a buck and pursue their moviestar careers.

My advice: Get a day job kids. Oh, and I'm out of water.

Thanks

Photos courtesy of Eurochow

An A-List Spot in L.A.

2005-10-08T21:58:00.000-04:00

When in Rome, you do as the Romans do and when in L.A., you visit A-List hot spots. I am on biz trip to L.A. for 2 weeks and earlier this week, I dined at A.O.C., the brain-child of James Beard-nominated chef, Suzanne Goin and sommelier, Caroline Styne.

A.O.C. (Appellation d'Origine Controllee, which stands for Appellation of Controlled Origin and refers to French Wine Law) features small plates served family-style and 50 wines by the glass. The menu is divided into various sections, including cheeses, charcuterie, salads, fish, meat, and items prepared in the restaurant's on-site wood burning oven.

Items not to miss: the lomo and two chorizo charcuterie plate; corn and avocado salad with chili, lime and cilantro; braised pork cheeks with horseradish gremolata; grilled skirt steak with aged balsamic aioli.

The wine list encompasses as much imagination as the cuisine. I indulged in a glass of Aussie Muscadelle from Hewitson. Fresh and lively, with notes of melon and citrus, this was a wonderful pairing to the corn and avocado salad.

A.O.C, 8022 W. Third Street,
Los Angeles, California
323.653.5359

Photos courtesy of www.aocwinebar.com